Sunday, November 29, 2009

Mosque of Abu al-Haggag

When we arrived in Luxor about a month ago, the first thing we noticed, by taxicab was the Luxor temple. Perched above the temple is the mosque of Abu al-Haggag. Being curious, but a bit relaxed, I asked about the mosque and asked my friend, A, to take me there. Of course, it is open for visits, but it is always best to get assistance, I figured particularly when visiting a mosque. A, agreed, but advised I wait until the festival to visit, so I forgot.

Today, he reminded me of his promise and away we went. Since it is the festival, everyone was dressed and the Muslim brothers and sisters were congregated out and about the grounds, which are of course also Luxor Temple proper. So imagine all the beautiful brothers and sisters brightly dressed and excited giving thanks and living. Meanwhile, below tourists being ushered in by the busload, looking at the sight but missing the most valuable piece of the puzzle, living and still a part of the whole complex.



As we walked through the mosque and to the inner mosque, I noticed a tingling at my head, Candice also noticed the same feeling, but she said she felt it as we entered the complex itself. I thought, this is where the life of the complex is. The amazing thing about our visit and about the mosque itself is its survival. As so called conscious people of color, we are often so interested in all that is classically Egyptian that we miss the bigger picture or the connection. This site is the site of an older Christian church and now a mosque. The reason should be apparent to anyone why. Something has compelled people for thousands of years to build here, to come here, to pray, at this particular spot. The locals say that this spot is full of baraka, divine blessings.

Recently, there was an attempt to demolish the mosque, every time the bulldozer came, they were unsuccessful. One tale is that whenever they tried, the bulldozer stopped working. A local official was said to be visited in his dreams. Later, not only was the demolition halted, but the mosque itself was restored. In fact, the cemented over hieroglphys inside the temple were even revealed because of this. So when you enter the temple, the original temple writings are present even inside the mosque. Parts have been carved away to make way for the newer faith, but inside the energy is ever present, baraka.

Inside, Brother A gave thanks, while Candice and I meditated and gave thanks, later, Brother A showed us the window outside where tourists were walking about stumbling through the temple below. A few days ago, I had been outside, looking above at the mosque, drawn in because there is something here, call it energy, call it whatever, but it is here. Outside, the festival went on, with children running and playing, laughing. Some looked at me, trying to figure the American brother in galabeya out.

Later, we went out for coffee and shisha in a semi outdoor cafe and Brother A told a story: there was a local man who had found out he had liver problems and needed to have surgery. Surgery was very expensive, but there was an Egyptian surgeon in from the UK who agreed to perform the surgery. Anyway, the guy had been around and tried other things before the surgery and nothing worked. With liver damage, there is yellowing of the skin or skin discoloration as well. So the night prior to his visit to the doctor for surgery, he had went out to buy provisions for his family and so he went to the butcher who was serving someone before him. As he was serving this person, a woman bent down collecting the scraps that fell on the ground. The man asked her what she was doing, the meat was dirty after it fell to the ground. She responded that she was a widow and she was taking the scraps so she could feed her children.

The man asked her how many children she had. She told him. He figured the number of children and the amount of meat she would need. He paid the butcher for meat for the woman for two years, two kilos of meat, twice a week for two years. The woman told him three times, God bless you, God bless you, God bless you. Later he went home. When he arrived home, he saw his daughter, and he was sad. He told his oldest daughter to look after the other children while he was in the hospital and still he was crying. When she asked why, he explained about the widow and how that made him feel sad. His daughter explained that as he was crying, his skin started returning to its color. The tears were taking the discoloration away.

The next day, before the surgeon began his operation, he performed an x ray. When he looked at the results, he asked the man, who he had seen before he came to him. He told him. The doctor was in disbelief, because there was no sign of the liver disease, it was all gone.

One reason I tell the story is because that is the type of place I live in now. This is a magical place, where miracles still do happen, saints walk the street among the poor. The second reason is that we should consider ourselves as custodians of our wealth or blessings, to help others. We get all that we have from God, and it is our responsibility to share with others. In this season especially it is important to understand as well that when you give, God gives back ten times, so give when you can, and accept blessings when they come. Also, don't judge others because of religion, creed, race or whatever hangups you have. Otherwise, be careful that your God doesn't judge you for the same hangups. Blessings to all.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Zills

A brother in the US had asked me to pick up some zills or finger cymbals for him. These are the type of cymbals used in dancing, like belly dancing or spanish dancing. I agreed because I am pretty much easy going and figured it wouldn't be that much a hassle and probably not that expensive. So I ask brother A, to pick some up. He look at me kind of funny like each time I ask and moves his fingers and thumbs together, and remembers and says, oh yeah, the belly dancer thing they use. I respond, "yeah brother, hand cymbals, zills." Then he always says that he will get some. I explain they are for an important brother in the states, each time, and he agrees. But we have been running doing odds and ends all week. So I ask again and this time he says he will for sure.

So, we pull in front of his shop, where he sells statues, legal antiques and such and he has his nephew come over. His much younger, about sixteen, nephew is there as well. So he tells us he is going to have his older nephew pick the zills up, since he knows where to go to get some good ones. He tells me to give him, a 50 or a 100 Egyptian, I don't remember which, whatever the case, under 20 US. So he gives this to his nephew and in Arabic explains what we want. The younger nephew just starts busting up. My wife is in the car with me and the assumption is that we want them for ourselves, to do sexy night time dances, or whatever. He is looking back and forth between me and Candice and just busting up.

We look at him and recognize this. They all speak manageable English so we explain that this is for a shipment to the states. They still are looking like, yeah, right. So we explain it seriously and Brother A, clears it up. We have a bunch to do, so we head off and go into the city part of Luxor, head to our favorite spot, and have turkish coffee and tea.

We return home and we go in and eat and such. Later on that evening, I call Brother A, and his phone is off. I assume he is asleep. Later we go to the cafe down the street and have coffee. He tells me that he was indeed asleep earlier, but that he had been interrupted in his sleep.

Brother A's nephew had brought the zills and left them with his wife while he was asleep. His wife got the package, opened it and went directly to where he was asleep. He told me that he was in deep sleep when she asked, "what's going on with you? You going out at night dressed all fancy. What you up to?" She yanked the cover and blanket off the bed and threw the zills down. He had to explain that they were not for him, not for some secret liason, but for his American brother. Further, he had to explain that they weren't really for us, but for us to send them back to the states. Yeah.

So, anyway, he managed to explain all this, somehow in Arabic, and everything is cool but I wish I could have been there to see that one. Talk about too funny.

I will try to catch a photo of the zills before they get sent. But hopefully they are on their way to the US already.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Passports and Visas

Things to Know
by Orlando A

Today I wanted to get a bit ahead of myself with things and decided to renew our visas. Actually, I have been contemplating it for a bit of time. However, thoughts of long lines and angry cashiers made me somewhat reluctant to visit the office. The entry visa that you get at the airport is valid for entry into Egypt for three months, so before my arrival, I thought I would be good with it for a while. It costs about $15 US. However, when I read the fine print a few days after arrival, I found out that while it is valid for entry for three months, it is only good for a one month stay. For that reason you have to renew your visa after your first month in Egypt, if you plan on staying longer, otherwise you will be arrested and brutally tortured. No, that isn't really accurate, just like in the states, you will be levied a fine, for allowing your visa to lapse.

Luckily, I read the fine print and went in to the small state office building well within one month to have my visa renewed. The process was relatively painless, because there are English speaking agents and there is a local office centrally located in Luxor that handles the visas. In addition, it doesn't hurt to have assistance from a friend to help out, who is from Luxor, in the know, and who can help move you through the line. Anyway, the 1 year renewal cost a little under 100 LE. It was helpful that I already had photos ready to go and that I had copies of the vital information from my passport.

A good idea is to have a number of photos made locally, when you first arrive and to have copies of your passport vital information and visa section as well. Photos in the US are pretty costly right now, I think when I went in to a photo shop it cost me about 10 US dollars per passport sized photo. However, I had the photos made locally at a very reputable shop, with a professional photographer, for about 12 LE for a set of seven. They only took one at the passport office, go figure.

If you wait until you arrive at the passport office to have them made, the shops around the office will know your desperation and charge accordingly. Another friend told me that when she went to have her visa renewed, the closest shop wanted to charge 50LE. Even though that is only the equivalent of about 8 US dollars, it is still prudent to find a shop before you arrive at the passport office. There are plenty in town, however negotiation is key.

The process consisted of filling out the appropriate paperwork, which included a local contact card, leaving that paperwork, my passport, the photos and the copies for about an hour while they worked on the visa extension. I have already mentioned my phobias about leaving my passport anywhere. However, I dismissed visions of torture and kidnap, left them and everything was fine. While we waited for the visa extensions we visited a local cafe and had falafels for breakfast. When we returned, the cashier was very pleasant, happy to see us, somewhat intrigued by the sight of Americans, I am sure, particularly with a gang of children, and actually smiled cordially, contrary to my earlier expectations.

We had to wait for a few minutes and except for Jake wanting to lay in the floor, that had twice the dirt of the dirtiest government office in the US, everything was fine. Later, when we went to another cafe, which was in a more rural area, he added even more dust and grit. If the worst part of the process was washing a filthy little boy after the visit, I would have to say, the overall process is very straightforward.