Mosque of Abu al-Haggag

When we arrived in Luxor about a month ago, the first thing we noticed, by taxicab was the Luxor temple. Perched above the temple is the mosque of Abu al-Haggag. Being curious, but a bit relaxed, I asked about the mosque and asked my friend, A, to take me there. Of course, it is open for visits, but it is always best to get assistance, I figured particularly when visiting a mosque. A, agreed, but advised I wait until the festival to visit, so I forgot.

Today, he reminded me of his promise and away we went. Since it is the festival, everyone was dressed and the Muslim brothers and sisters were congregated out and about the grounds, which are of course also Luxor Temple proper. So imagine all the beautiful brothers and sisters brightly dressed and excited giving thanks and living. Meanwhile, below tourists being ushered in by the busload, looking at the sight but missing the most valuable piece of the puzzle, living and still a part of the whole complex.



As we walked through the mosque and to the inner mosque, I noticed a tingling at my head, Candice also noticed the same feeling, but she said she felt it as we entered the complex itself. I thought, this is where the life of the complex is. The amazing thing about our visit and about the mosque itself is its survival. As so called conscious people of color, we are often so interested in all that is classically Egyptian that we miss the bigger picture or the connection. This site is the site of an older Christian church and now a mosque. The reason should be apparent to anyone why. Something has compelled people for thousands of years to build here, to come here, to pray, at this particular spot. The locals say that this spot is full of baraka, divine blessings.

Recently, there was an attempt to demolish the mosque, every time the bulldozer came, they were unsuccessful. One tale is that whenever they tried, the bulldozer stopped working. A local official was said to be visited in his dreams. Later, not only was the demolition halted, but the mosque itself was restored. In fact, the cemented over hieroglphys inside the temple were even revealed because of this. So when you enter the temple, the original temple writings are present even inside the mosque. Parts have been carved away to make way for the newer faith, but inside the energy is ever present, baraka.

Inside, Brother A gave thanks, while Candice and I meditated and gave thanks, later, Brother A showed us the window outside where tourists were walking about stumbling through the temple below. A few days ago, I had been outside, looking above at the mosque, drawn in because there is something here, call it energy, call it whatever, but it is here. Outside, the festival went on, with children running and playing, laughing. Some looked at me, trying to figure the American brother in galabeya out.

Later, we went out for coffee and shisha in a semi outdoor cafe and Brother A told a story: there was a local man who had found out he had liver problems and needed to have surgery. Surgery was very expensive, but there was an Egyptian surgeon in from the UK who agreed to perform the surgery. Anyway, the guy had been around and tried other things before the surgery and nothing worked. With liver damage, there is yellowing of the skin or skin discoloration as well. So the night prior to his visit to the doctor for surgery, he had went out to buy provisions for his family and so he went to the butcher who was serving someone before him. As he was serving this person, a woman bent down collecting the scraps that fell on the ground. The man asked her what she was doing, the meat was dirty after it fell to the ground. She responded that she was a widow and she was taking the scraps so she could feed her children.

The man asked her how many children she had. She told him. He figured the number of children and the amount of meat she would need. He paid the butcher for meat for the woman for two years, two kilos of meat, twice a week for two years. The woman told him three times, God bless you, God bless you, God bless you. Later he went home. When he arrived home, he saw his daughter, and he was sad. He told his oldest daughter to look after the other children while he was in the hospital and still he was crying. When she asked why, he explained about the widow and how that made him feel sad. His daughter explained that as he was crying, his skin started returning to its color. The tears were taking the discoloration away.

The next day, before the surgeon began his operation, he performed an x ray. When he looked at the results, he asked the man, who he had seen before he came to him. He told him. The doctor was in disbelief, because there was no sign of the liver disease, it was all gone.

One reason I tell the story is because that is the type of place I live in now. This is a magical place, where miracles still do happen, saints walk the street among the poor. The second reason is that we should consider ourselves as custodians of our wealth or blessings, to help others. We get all that we have from God, and it is our responsibility to share with others. In this season especially it is important to understand as well that when you give, God gives back ten times, so give when you can, and accept blessings when they come. Also, don't judge others because of religion, creed, race or whatever hangups you have. Otherwise, be careful that your God doesn't judge you for the same hangups. Blessings to all.

Zills

A brother in the US had asked me to pick up some zills or finger cymbals for him. These are the type of cymbals used in dancing, like belly dancing or spanish dancing. I agreed because I am pretty much easy going and figured it wouldn't be that much a hassle and probably not that expensive. So I ask brother A, to pick some up. He look at me kind of funny like each time I ask and moves his fingers and thumbs together, and remembers and says, oh yeah, the belly dancer thing they use. I respond, "yeah brother, hand cymbals, zills." Then he always says that he will get some. I explain they are for an important brother in the states, each time, and he agrees. But we have been running doing odds and ends all week. So I ask again and this time he says he will for sure.

So, we pull in front of his shop, where he sells statues, legal antiques and such and he has his nephew come over. His much younger, about sixteen, nephew is there as well. So he tells us he is going to have his older nephew pick the zills up, since he knows where to go to get some good ones. He tells me to give him, a 50 or a 100 Egyptian, I don't remember which, whatever the case, under 20 US. So he gives this to his nephew and in Arabic explains what we want. The younger nephew just starts busting up. My wife is in the car with me and the assumption is that we want them for ourselves, to do sexy night time dances, or whatever. He is looking back and forth between me and Candice and just busting up.

We look at him and recognize this. They all speak manageable English so we explain that this is for a shipment to the states. They still are looking like, yeah, right. So we explain it seriously and Brother A, clears it up. We have a bunch to do, so we head off and go into the city part of Luxor, head to our favorite spot, and have turkish coffee and tea.

We return home and we go in and eat and such. Later on that evening, I call Brother A, and his phone is off. I assume he is asleep. Later we go to the cafe down the street and have coffee. He tells me that he was indeed asleep earlier, but that he had been interrupted in his sleep.

Brother A's nephew had brought the zills and left them with his wife while he was asleep. His wife got the package, opened it and went directly to where he was asleep. He told me that he was in deep sleep when she asked, "what's going on with you? You going out at night dressed all fancy. What you up to?" She yanked the cover and blanket off the bed and threw the zills down. He had to explain that they were not for him, not for some secret liason, but for his American brother. Further, he had to explain that they weren't really for us, but for us to send them back to the states. Yeah.

So, anyway, he managed to explain all this, somehow in Arabic, and everything is cool but I wish I could have been there to see that one. Talk about too funny.

I will try to catch a photo of the zills before they get sent. But hopefully they are on their way to the US already.

Passports and Visas

Things to Know

by Orlando A

Today I wanted to get a bit ahead of myself with things and decided to renew our visas. Actually, I have been contemplating it for a bit of time. However, thoughts of long lines and angry cashiers made me somewhat reluctant to visit the office. The entry visa that you get at the airport is valid for entry into Egypt for three months, so before my arrival, I thought I would be good with it for a while. It costs about $15 US. However, when I read the fine print a few days after arrival, I found out that while it is valid for entry for three months, it is only good for a one month stay. For that reason you have to renew your visa after your first month in Egypt, if you plan on staying longer, otherwise you will be arrested and brutally tortured. No, that isn't really accurate, just like in the states, you will be levied a fine, for allowing your visa to lapse.

Luckily, I read the fine print and went in to the small state office building well within one month to have my visa renewed. The process was relatively painless, because there are English speaking agents and there is a local office centrally located in Luxor that handles the visas. In addition, it doesn't hurt to have assistance from a friend to help out, who is from Luxor, in the know, and who can help move you through the line. Anyway, the 1 year renewal cost a little under 100 LE. It was helpful that I already had photos ready to go and that I had copies of the vital information from my passport.

A good idea is to have a number of photos made locally, when you first arrive and to have copies of your passport vital information and visa section as well. Photos in the US are pretty costly right now, I think when I went in to a photo shop it cost me about 10 US dollars per passport sized photo. However, I had the photos made locally at a very reputable shop, with a professional photographer, for about 12 LE for a set of seven. They only took one at the passport office, go figure.

If you wait until you arrive at the passport office to have them made, the shops around the office will know your desperation and charge accordingly. Another friend told me that when she went to have her visa renewed, the closest shop wanted to charge 50LE. Even though that is only the equivalent of about 8 US dollars, it is still prudent to find a shop before you arrive at the passport office. There are plenty in town, however negotiation is key.

The process consisted of filling out the appropriate paperwork, which included a local contact card, leaving that paperwork, my passport, the photos and the copies for about an hour while they worked on the visa extension. I have already mentioned my phobias about leaving my passport anywhere. However, I dismissed visions of torture and kidnap, left them and everything was fine. While we waited for the visa extensions we visited a local cafe and had falafels for breakfast. When we returned, the cashier was very pleasant, happy to see us, somewhat intrigued by the sight of Americans, I am sure, particularly with a gang of children, and actually smiled cordially, contrary to my earlier expectations.

We had to wait for a few minutes and except for Jake wanting to lay in the floor, that had twice the dirt of the dirtiest government office in the US, everything was fine. Later, when we went to another cafe, which was in a more rural area, he added even more dust and grit. If the worst part of the process was washing a filthy little boy after the visit, I would have to say, the overall process is very straightforward.

Viva Egypt

Day by Day

Orlando A

I love national pride. I remember when we went to Memphis and saw the open air museum there. Talk about a very memorable place. However, what I remember the most is the guard at the back of the museum. He was guarding the museum and typically backsheesh is always welcome. So his attempt to gather backsheesh was with the comment, "America, number one." I am thinking to myself, what type of comment is this for a man in uniform, from Egypt. Seems to me Egypt should be number one if you are getting paid by the Egyptian government, and when I feel really uncomfortable with this, I know where the airport is. Not to say I ain't proud of America insofar as the things we have done as a people to make a great country, but every national should be proud of his or her own nationality, particularly in his own country. I am surely proud of our accomplishments as Africans in America, despite the negatives that have been present in our treatment in America.

So anyway, we were out today and I forgot that today Egypt was playing Algeria for a place in the world cup, and soccer is really big here. Soccer is like football and baseball combined. So this is like the Superbowl or something. Everyone had been talking about it all week. So we went out to grab a bite to eat. Unfortunately without a camera. So first stop is a restaurant right down the street from where we live. A, had recommended this restaurant from a few more, because it doesn't typically cater to tourists, it is more geared towards locals, the Egyptian House. So we went in and the cook, who didn't speak much English went out to gather the owner, who spoke a fair deal of English. He had been watching the game before we came in.

We order and look at the menu. The prices are a bit high. But I order anyway, hearing A, in my ear telling me that it is a good deal. So we order and leave while they prepare the food. On the way to find a cab a man sees us and speaks, "viva Egypt!" "Viva Egypt," I reply.

We hop in a taxi and head downtown to look at another restaurant we heard about via travel guides and such. It is a British establishment, the Jewel of the Nile. The owner hears us telling our cabbie to come back and rushes to speak with us. The Nubian waiter seats us and before we can begin to look at the menu the owner asks if we are going to eat in. I explain that we are going to look at the menu and maybe order a few things, but we were just curious. I see pigeon on the menu and see that it takes a day to prepare. I laugh, I have a score to settle. I tell her we are going to call ahead for stuffed pigeon in a day or so and head back out to look around and find a cab back to the Egyptian House.

We start walking down Television street and wind up in front of Omar's Supermarket, which is a souk that has food and such. A young boy is in front and asks for a small donation saying he will bless us for the donation. I don't have change, but tell him I will go get change in Omar's. He looks at us go in, down the aisle and comments, pointing to the register that change is over there. I tell him that I am going to buy something for change and to relax. Young upstart!

We buy some olive oil, and pringles. Once you pop... So, then we head back out and I hand him 1.50 Egyptian and he hands me a small baggie of incense. He has a small basket filled with coals and I hand Candice the incense. She pours some on the charcoal and he prays for her and incenses. It is aromatic. I place incense on the charcoal and he does the same for me. It is energizing, aromatic and sublime. I thank him and hand him back the incense. He refuses it, and tells us to keep it. As we walk away, he asks for a 5 Egyptian so that he can buy a falafel. Part of me is like, what, I just gave you 1.50 EGP, then the other part is like, 5 Egyptian is like 90 cents US. I look at him, at his dusty face and see that he probably is hungry. I hand him the change and he thanks me again and is about his way.

We walk down Television street and it is getting dark. Somehow we veer down a wrong way, although we never leave the huge street. We wind down a street with only locals present. They are celebrating with only Egyptian flags everywhere. The game is on every TV. Egypt scores and the crowds go wild. We are starting to wonder which turn took us the wrong way. There are shops with butchers and nuts. No English signs. No cabbies. Still, I know I am safe and there is joy in the air.

A few seconds later we make it back to Television street. Somehow we took a detour. Back on Television street which is a main street that is only teen years or so from being farmland the crowds are out and about. The red white and black Egyptian flag is everywhere. People are starting to go wild celebrating. We find a cab and head back to pick up our order from Egyptian House.

When we get back, I hand the cab driver 15 Egyptian, less than three US dollars, counting a nice tip and head in to pick up our food. The cook is in the front waiting for us. He hands me the order, which is for seven. He tells me the order is going to be reduced because he knows we are from in the neighborhood. The price of carry out for seven which included two different soups, flatbread, roasted chicken, Egyptian salad, hummus and rice would be 75 Egyptian which equals about 14 US dollars. I hand him 100 Egyptian and thank him for his hospitality.

Later we found Egypt had indeed beat Algeria and are headed to the world cup. Viva Egypt.

Egypt beats Algeria 2-0 in World Cup qualifier‎

Luxor Temple

Temples and Sites

by Orlando A

Yesterday we finally visited Luxor Temple. Luxor Temple is the most picturesque of temples I have seen thus far. Candice was in a mood, the kids were super energized, especially Jacob. The temple has been restored to a state where the layout and design of the grounds can be appreciated as if this were a modern structure. The position of and the energy emanating from the temple reminds me of Grant Park in Chicago which is not unlike Central Park in New York in many respects. Grant Park serves to pull people towards it, I remember going to work many days and seeing either the park or the festivals going on in the park and wishing I could be a part of the event or go hang out in the park. It is the same with Luxor. But none of that matters much when your lady is in a mood. So rather than trying to get to the bottom of all that, I decided it was time to see Luxor. Jacob decided it was time to play in every bit of temple dust he could touch, and later lick, and of course, roll around in.

A few weeks ago, when we arrived in the town of Luxor we saw the temple and our attention was drawn towards Luxor Temple because it was both huge and unlike any other structure in town besides Karnak. Karnak itself is walled off and separate and slightly to the north of town. Luxor on the other hand is easily seen and central to town. We drove by Luxor, many a time wondering when we would finally arrive, each time on the way to some mundane task. Buying food and juice, purchasing clothing, meeting someone or the other; always Luxor stood, drawing us to itself.

• Additional Photos (Picasa)

We arrived at a little after one o'clock in the afternoon. At this time of year that was the perfect time because the temple columns themselves serve to partially shade the complex landscape. In addition, the tourists arrived a bit later, as we were leaving, on our way back home. So anytime except the summertime I would recommend a visit probably right after the noon hour, and I have been told that all the temples deserve a visit at night to see the light shows. Since Egypt is so alive at night period, I would have to agree. During the day carry water or juice for refreshment, luckily we did. Our choice was orange schweppes and baraka water.

When we arrived we entered the gate which is now on the side away from the Nile and not on the Nile side. We entered the security gate and went in to purchase tickets. I would recommend having nearly exact change. The ticket agent looked completely non-apologetic when I handed her two one hundred pound Egyptian notes for five discounted tickets. The prices at discount were twenty five pounds each. Luckily, Corey had twenty five which she loaned me for her admission (about four US dollars). The ticket agent looked disappointed and issued our tickets, perhaps she wanted us to pay the full fee, best to carry exact change, a student card purchased in the states and small bills.

Upon entry you walk down a small walkway which leads you to the choice of the column of sphinx (which is the proper entry to the temple) or the temple itself. To the side of this entryway is a small building, said to be the Chapel of Serapis. A chapel is said to furthermore be a place of worship inside of a greater place of worship, often for private prayer as opposed to a larger cathedral or such. We chose to walk towards the Temple itself however, and later returned to the chapel.

The temple is enormous and has been added on time and time again. At one point, there was a Roman fort built around the temple, and there is a remaining mosque, the mosque of Abu al-Haggag, which can be visited. Abu Haggag is a local saint, probably Luxor's main saint or holy man. The mosque of Abu al-Haggag remains because it is said to be built on a holy spot, full of baraka, or divine blessing. I would agree. The site was once a Coptic church but was converted to a mosque during the twelfth century. Of course the Luxor Temple predates the building of both by over two thousand years. Amenhotep the third is said to have completed the temple at about 1400 BC. However, the spot does indeed have an energy about it which has attracted congregants of many faiths, and people of all nationalities.

Beneath the mosque lies Luxor, immediately before you arrive at anything else is the Obelisk ,the remaining one of two, the other has been removed to the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Following is the court of Ramses II who is said to have renovated the temple and completed more work on it after Amenhotep III. Statues of Ramses the II are abundant. The columns are said to show Ramses II making offerings to the gods. Following are courts and chambers said to be dedicated to Amen, Mut and Khonsu.

Amenhotep III is said to be the father of Akhenaton (Amenhotep IV), much of the work here shows his work and the decoration shows the return of Tutankhamun to the ways of old, following the reign of Akhenaton and the worship of Atun. Aparrantly, some stuff went down. In addition, with all this worship of Amen, nothing is left to pay homage to Amen-et, his predecessor and synchronous mate, but that is another story.

My plan was to visit and allow myself to be taken where my spirit would, take photos of the reliefs that were of most interest and try to make sense of them over time. We found a few at the end of Ramses court as well as in other places around the temple complex. Some I will include as photos for this article. By the time we got into Ramses court Candice was talking to me again and we managed to both marvel at the reliefs.

As we were crossing from the Court of Ramses into the Colonnade of Amenhotep, I was approached by a tour guide. He was a local and he told me his name was Moses. He tried unsuccessfully to operate as my tour guide. He asked where I was from and I said America, waiting for "yes, Obama." He asked me again, I said America. He looks intently and say where you really from. Then I look at him funny and said, you from Africa. I smiled and then I say oh yeah, "I am from Afrika," then added, "right here in Egypt." He look at me funny at first and then smiled back in agreement.

Moses asked me if I knew what his name meant. I did, but all I could mutter out was water. He agreed and added, son of the water. Later he told me he was actually an Egyptologist, although it seems that gets thrown around a bit here. However, I asked him if the Mo, Mu was was related to the Nu, Nuit, N - as in water and he seemed to understand and offered the beginnings of an explanation. So I asked for his number and figured he might be able to offer some additional info sometime in the future, after I figure out what I am interested in most studying.

From that point we went all the way to the back of the temple where the Shrine of Amun and the sanctuary of Amenhotep the III are. In the chambers leading to the sanctuary and shrine there are openings up to the sky and they are pretty massive. On the way out, in one of the dark openings there is a drop of what I think is water. I am like, damn, this is like a type of baptism, on the back of my shirt. I am like about to have this mystical experience in this little space of dark silence and I am like what is that, that fell on me. I am thinking of the waters of Amun, dripping down, only on the select. Corey is right behind me. I ask again, "what is that dripping," thinking I am speaking in my mind, Corey says, "there are pigeons up there."

Just a drop hit me and we had some paper towels. I look up, see them and start thinking. I am a quasi mostly vegetarian, but you do know that Egyptians eat pigeons over here. Pigeon soup, probably roasted too. Yeah. So that seems to be an invite to at least try one, I mean fair game for at least the experience. Teach them a lesson. Whatever the case, my shirt is still way cleaner than Jacob's who now has this film of grey temple dust covering every inch of his body.

So we return to the front of the temple and the Japanese are arriving. Japanese cat doing the power fist out in front of Ramses, well something like that. I'm like whoa.

Remember that small change I recommended? It is for the groundskeepers and such who will recommend certain spots for the wayward visitor to photo and experience. As recompense you should have backsheesh of a few Egyptian Pounds, one or two at least, which is the equivalent of about forty cents. They will even photo you or a group with much joy.

As we walk towards the entrance to the complex Candice looks at me and asks if I remember the columns that we had walked past and if I knew what they represented. She explained that they were the fourteen powers from ra which are bestowed to the king, priest, initiate, etcetera...leading to the perfected man. Later she explained it in context to the famous relief of Akhenaton with the sun shinning down on him...each hand representing the same respective idea. I guess that was another reason to keep your woman happy, revelations worthy of a king for free. Maybe Moses knew something about that too though, I will ask him next time, since I got his number.

We ended the tour by stopping to view a decapitated so called Serapis in his said chapel and the column of Sphinx which are still being excavated and will stretch for blocks. Serapis is worth a discussion all of his own, even if the said chapel is not. As excavation in town continues I will add photos and commentary. Until then.

Afterward:
Probably our most lasting thoughts after visiting are the relation of this temple to Anubis who is around quite a bit and his function as intermediary between our world and the next, guardian of the gate. In addition, after considering the function of Serapis at the entry to the temple, in a likewise function as the keeper of the way, gatekeeper of the underworld, as well as his synchronization with Osiris. Analyzing Serapis, Anubis, Amen, Mut and Amenet together should be very interesting indeed.

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Just the Essentials

Day by Day
Orlando A

A, called me this morning to see what I needed, if I needed anything at all. He has continually refused payment for anything. Every now and then I talk him into letting me pay for something, although he always is shelling out. He prefers to pay, and when he does, he reminds me of the Egyptian godfather. To start, he drives this huge dark Dodge Durango in a sea of imports and when we roll, he drives like my uncle Joseph, who knows he is the emperor of the road. When people in the neighborhood encounter A slowly cruising, their first instinct is to honk, but when they see who they were going to honk at, they say nothing and move along. Me and Candice chuckle. Outside the neighborhood, less so, but it is still funny. He says he learned to drive in America and he is the only driver I have ridden with here who drives like an American in a sea of Egyptian drivers and chaos.

So we were supposed to go out and pick up some bread from his cousin's bakery, which is really cool because they have a stone oven, and it is right across the street from Luxor temple. However, we had been asked to pick up some essential oil for a friend who wanted it for health reasons, and he had told me previously he knew a spot right outside of town where the guy hooks up a donkey to a huge wheel and they make it right before your eyes. So I asked him if he minded going, poof, just like that we are on the road.

The road to Qus, is a pretty modern road, farms and pleasant scenery, only a couple of checkpoints along the way. I am getting used to the soldiers on the road at the checkpoints now, but it is still kind of like, wow. We made it into town and Brother A, had to ask for directions, the oil spot was hidden in a nook, deep in town. Qus is a relatively inexpensive place to live. Divide the cost of living in Luxor by four and you get an idea. However, you would need to speak Arabic there, as English is more like a memory, unlike in Cairo and Luxor where most people understand at least a few phrases or can direct you to someone who does.

So when we arrived at the shop, to say it was quaint would be an understatement. All the prices and signs were in Arabic. To learn to speak Arabic is one huge daunting task, to learn to write Arabic is another thing. Luckily, A was there. In addition, I know how to read Arabic numbers, which isn't really that hard. All the prices were very, very reasonable. However, we were too late to see the making of the oil. As it happens, a cow is hooked up to the huge wheel, but that happens in the morning. So we will go back another morning and see the making of the oil. However, the smell was still there lingering and locals were coming in to buy their essential oils from the man who looked none too pleased to see anyone who was not a local.

However, we purchased pure rose oil, mint oil, orange oil, a liter of olive oil, jersaline, and the best smelling lavender and jasimine oil I ever smelled. All were purchased for a relative fraction of the cost of synthetics in the states and even counting the cost of gas, which A paid for, and forcing A to let me buy his, were still a bargain.

On the way home, we navigated the streets, and wished we had brought water. The Egyptian sun had risen overhead and we were all thirsty. Twenty minutes back to Luxor. We were given the wrong directions back to the main road out of Qus twice, once by a man with two teeth. We joked, he lost all his teeth because he was a liar. Soon after we found the road, we had taken a shortcut and bypassed the city itself.

A checkpoint and few minutes later we were at the outskirts of Luxor again, looking across at the Valley of the Kings and Queens. A, asked if we still wanted to go to the bakery or look for drinks. We decided to head to the bakery. When we arrived at the bakery to buy bread, we found corn muffins fresh out of the oven. A, grabbed a few for us to sample, how could we resist? Each was 1LE, the equivalent of about 18 cents. We bought 15 and bread for about 3 days, for maybe three or four US dollars. I think my biggest expense from the whole adventure will be shipping the oil back to the US. Since it is for a friend I will use Fedex, next time we will use the Egyptian mail service, which is likewise inexpensive.

Tomorrow we plan on maybe buying socks and going to Luxor temple. I will put photos of Luxor temple up, and maybe some pictures of the market. Maybe I will talk Brother A into taking me around to his tailor to make me a galabia and some pants. The price he quoted me for a handmade galabia was unbelievable. Apparantly because of my above typical height of 6 feet tall, I will have to have my galabia hand made, the cost will still be less than half a pair of pants in the US, but only if I can get the local price. A is wonderful because not only does he look for the local price, he looks for the wholesale local price, after all, he owns a few local businesses. Every night I sleep over Karnak. Tomorrow, Luxor.

Egyptian Hospitality

Day by Day
Orlando A


Egyptian hospitality is legendary, but modern ways of life competes with tradition not just in Luxor but in most places worldwide today. The tourist dollar drives the economy here and as a result tourists are eagerly sought after, especially after the last few years of global downturn and the Bush war years. As a result American tourists are a very pleasant site for locals because the dollar is still strong compared to the Egyptian pound and Americans tend to be more generous than many other tourist groups. That said, the touts of tea can often amount to little more than a plea for purchase. Even that must be respected, but rarely is, when you compare and contrast this way of business to that in a big city in America. Where can you have tea on the house (or Turkish coffee if you are smart), while you negotiate a bargain price on goods, or simply walk away?

While bargaining is a way of life, sometimes it is nice to just get away the hustle of the day and have a nice meal. Today we had just that when we had lunch which turned into dinner with our
friend A, who is indeed as he has claimed, a chef extraordinaire. We had both fried basa and basa prepared in a lemon butter sauce accompanied with rice and fresh picked arugala and
romaine lettuce salad. Accompanying the feast was tahini, which I couldn't touch because I was already stuffed from the other food, and breakfast. The tomatoes were so fresh the flavor
came alive in your mouth. Before eating he treated us to fresh guava juice and bottled water. After dinner we had tea and Turkish coffee. I remembered to take a photo, after we had eaten half of our feast, about as usual for me and delicious food like this. Me and fresh fruit juice, freshly picked organic vegetables and fish, please, that was just an invitation to eat.

The time we spent at dinner and the hospitality from our host augmented and showed as only precursor, the attempts at tea from merchants, this meal was true Egyptian hospitality. Not
that the other tea invites were unappreciated, just that genuine hospitality is always so much better, even if free Turkish is now going to be my mantra from merchants too, if not mint tea.

We started out the day debating on heading over to Luxor temple and maybe to extend our visa's. Instead we decided to hang out around the house and encourage the kids to work on
schoolwork. We had said that Candice and the kids were going to go over with A's kids and wife, so they could spend time together. However, A called at about 12:55 and reminded me that he was going to cook today and insisted that I come as well.

I had a headache but figured, I might as well go and get fresh air, even though I had eaten earlier. So when we arrived I told A, about my headache and he offered me the Egyptian
equivalent of stand-back, the powdered headache remedy, even though I was skeptical of its possible effectiveness. These headaches with me usually last for days and the American
stand-back, let alone aspirin usually doesn't work. I took some and before dinner was served my headache was gone.

The rest of the evening was conversation about the US and old times, places of note in Egypt and talk about family. We learned about the neighborhood, relative prices and the way things used
to be. All this on a balcony about a block away from the Nile, with a warm wind blowing over a picture perfect sky, settling into night. As we were wrapping up for the night, A, explained he did this because he wanted me to feel at home here, like this was my home. I explained, but I already do. This is Egypt. After that he asked each of us what our favorite food was, and he waited for each answer, contemplating the relative ease of preperation. He is after all a chef, a New York chef at that with a warchest of stories about famous New York chefs to go along, they await for another time.

Smoke Filled Offices

Day by Day
Orlando A

I can't remember the last time I was in a room filled with so much smoke. Candice was sitting next to me, big Hamdi across from me. Little Hamdi was pacing back and forth, smoking a merit, talking on his cellular and the lawyer was standing over his pock-faced assistant, smoking a camel, while he typed the contract pecking with two of his fingers. The lawyer dictated in Arabic and from time to time spoke in English to me. Earlier we had waited while he typed pecking slowly with one finger at a time but had become frustrated and we all were initially relieved when his assistant arrived, but later realized our mistake. I thought back to a few months ago when I was thinking about going to law school and had instead decided on travel.

The negotiations had been completed a few days before, big Hamdi had agreed to rent us his apartment for an amazing price, more than half of my ridiculously low (by US Standards) current rent, it was a wonderful three bedroom apartment a block away from the Hilton. At least two western style restaurants were nearby with grocery and a fruit stand less than a block away as well. We got the price because of Little Hamdi, who always is a bit more aggressive in these things and insisted on working with me to get the best price. I really doubt if it could have gotten lower, however the owner thought it was too low. But we had been quoted the price by family, so it was pretty much a lock. It was finally agreed that the price would be what I asked if I agreed to stay for a year and prepaid at least half the entire lease. Initially I balked, then I considered the amount in question. I figured it was not an unusual request. However, the negotiations in question at this time lasted about an hour. We sat, drinking tea, initially with a cousin of the owner. Later, we sat with the owner for another hour, discussing the deal.

Later, we talked for another hour about how we would arrange the contract. Finally, we agreed we would have a lawyer draft the contract and then have that contract drafted into English. So we sat in the lawyers office, off the darkest street in Luxor, which was more an alley, down the street from a kitchen chopping vegetables for the next day, probably a job for some luxury hotel. The first time when we arrived, the lawyer wasn't present. Candice and I look at each other. Big Hamdi has Little Hamdi call and we find out that the lawyer will be there in about twenty minutes. We go to a cafe for Turkish coffee and tea.

After Turkish coffee, we return and find a lit sign for the lawyer and his office, a small provincial spot, but indeed a lawyers office, complete with the legal library and all the expected trappings of a smaller lawyer's office space. He begins by speaking to Hamdi and then us, appraising our needs and then slowly begins typing the contract, pecking with one finger. He smokes with the other hand. Little Hamdi offers me a cigarette, I decline. Big Hamdi doesn't smoke either. About an hour later, I step outside for fresh air, even then we are halfway done. At some point we negotiate a deposit for damages, it comes out to about $50 US. The lawyer seems to think this is not necessary from my standpoint, but at the same time feels there should be some guarantee. Tourists don't normally pay deposits, but I never wanted to be a tourist. He offers me a cigarette, I decline.

Later, after negotiations, we realize that the contract will not be translated here, we will have to pick the contract up a few days later. They will be sending it out. We ride with big Hamdi, little Hamdi, and the assistant a few blocks away. The assistant is going to drop the contract off for translation. While riding with him I feel guilty for thinking of how much he reminds me of Manuel Noriega or if not him some other dictator. I wonder if I have done anything to warrant torture. I quickly dismiss the thought, since I haven't. Still, he is a scary looking guy. After he hops out, I go back to thinking happier thoughts.

A few days later, for different reasons, we decide against renting the apartment. This would have been a second apartment for us here, at least for a few months. However, even the decision against renting results in new negotiations. Big Hamdi explains that it is fine that we have made the decision, and he is okay with it, only that he has offered us this price because of the commitment to his cousin. He tells us that if we want to rent it in the future it will be more expensive. An increase by a third of the price. I explain that I understand, we talk for about ten more minutes and close with the agreement not to have the agreement right now, but perhaps in the future. This is the third flat I have been offered for a wonderful price in only so many days.

Dendorah

Temples and Sites
Orlando A.


Yesterday we woke up early and headed up to Dendorah Temple. Dendorah is about one hour north from here near a town called Qena which seems a pleasant town. There is heightened security in the area because of the problems in the area in the mid nineties, however, everything went well on our journey. Our driver said if anyone asks, say you are British. A driver later in the day told me to tell everyone my wife was Egyptian and told Candice to tell everyone, her husband is Egyptian. That was his solution to avoid being hassled, period. I still want to tell everyone I am Nigerian, but I guess that is just a personal problem with me.

Anyway, Dendorah hands down is my favorite temple so far. We got there pretty early so there were only two groups of tourists there. Funny funny story. We head out of our minibus and Candice has packed lunch. A bit of tuna, some bread and crackers. We go through, buy tickets, 20 LE (about $3.70) each thanks to the ISIC card, walk in and through the metal detector, in, no problem. Then I hear Candice beep and see the guard ask her to put the food bag through the detector and later open it up.

I look around and inside this bag they pull out two knives, one which is huge and serrated. I mean this is like an Anthony Perkins psycho knife. I am like OMG. My eyes are open wide. The guard looks up and he looks at Candice and is very nice. He explains she has to take it back to the car. Our driver for the day later tells me, if that had happened to a local, it would have been six months, no questions, in jail. I look at Candice and she is like, "what, one of them was a butter knife. What can you do with a butter knife." Yeah, right.

So anyway, me and Cory look back and after they get through the checkpoint with the rest of the food we make it into the temple area. Dendorah is wonderful. The heiroglyphs are still in pretty good shape and when well lighted you can see many reliefs on the walls. In addition, I had the good fortune of meeting up with a guard who wanted to show me the real deal. He took me down to the basement area and really pulled me to the reliefs that we usually only see in the books.

My jaws dropped when I saw the image of the Black Madonna from about 2000 years before the other one was even imagined. I got the picture but that is dark, it was underground. He also took us: Me, Asari and CJ up to the roof to see the Astrological Zodiac that all are built on now, and a very wonderful relief of Nuit, the goddess representative of the universe. When you go out at night and look in the sky, you see Nuit. (or Night or Nu or Nut). She is also said to be the mother of Osiris (Ausar) and Isis (Auset). Isis (Auset) is in turn the original image of the mother, Madonna or Mary.

But Dendorah is not the temple of Isis, this is the temple of an older goddess, Hathor. Hathor is the wife of Horus, or Heru. So since we know that this god Heru is the basis of every action movie hero, those fantasies you see on TV, all those rambos and supermen and so on, imagine what the real deal's wife was like!

Hathor aligns with Aphrodite or Venus, and is considered a goddess of love and beauty - as well as the golden one. She was later synthesized into Isis, later on, but she is pictured with the headress of cows horns and the sun disc of her father, the sun god Ra.

Generally speaking, Hathor can be considered a goddess who functions as the everywoman goddess: goddess as wife, goddess as mother, goddess as lover. So when a woman is out of sync with these areas in her life she would want to bring herself back into alignment with these functions within herself, since the gods can only exist only through man/woman. One of the things I really liked about Dendorah as well is that it not only highlighted these aspects of Hathor but it also highlighted her relationship to Horus, I mean everywhere you look, you see them together and you see the nature of family that is not always present in other traditions.

West Bank

Temples and Sites

by Orlando A.

On Monday we went to the West Bank; Luxor and Karnak are on the East Bank of the Nile and the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens are on the West Bank. We took a ferry across the Nile and a small boat back the to the East Bank, where we live, afterwards. You could also drive across, or take a cab, but this was our first time going across so we decided with our English neighbor, A, to take the ferry across. The ferry was pretty crowded, but not too crowded and everyone seemed to be in a good mood. Looking out at the Nile from the ferry was like a dream come true. There are also cruise ships which can meet varying budget requirements which run up and down the Nile. You can also rent a Felucca, a smaller sail boat, to bring you back up the Nile from Aswan, but that would take a few days to reach Luxor from Aswan.

When we arrived on the West Bank we were greated by the normal cadre of cab drivers and agents trying to sell cab rides. There should be no problem finding a cab on the West Bank, and since everything is a bit spread out, you will probably need one. We just did a quick drive around the area, with, A, showing us where the valley ticket office and so on. We passed by the Colossi of Memnon which tower from the desert.

A, also took us to a museum in Qurna, or Gurna dedicated to the local residents or Qurnawi, whose houses and whole villages have been largely removed and are now being displaced due to the government deciding that the area should be free from housing and the risks associated with the proliforation of antiquities due to the tunnels that could be created from said structures. In other words, there is said to be a history of people digging beneath their homes to tombs underneath to unearth artifacts. A, told us the story of going into one of the tunnels and having a bit of excitement. Still, it seems that something better could be done for the local residents, other than moving entire villages. However, it is an odd situation to say the least. The residents report that the new government constructed houses are not holding up very well, however, I did not see them. Newer is not always better though.

Afterwards we finished off at a local restaurant for lemon squash, which is lemonade that is blended and water for all. We walked to the Medinat Habu, and then caught a cab back down to the dock. We took a small boat home, which put us closer to the Nile but not close enough for crocodiles! While waiting a young guy saw the kufi I was wearing and asked if I was Muslim. I answered, "I am everything." He looked confused. He thought for a second and said, "it doesn't matter, we are all the same anyway." One God, One Love. People in general, even if they are selling stuff are genuinely happy to see you come down the street. I have had people just pleased out of their minds to see us, selling nothing. I send that love right back to them too.

Anyway, this guy was selling scarfs, which men wrap around there heads here as well. I declined, because I didn't have much money with me, and I had to get back home, but the young brother gave it to me anyway, as a gift. I was very grateful. My neighbor thought he had sold it to me at an overinflated price, sometimes people are just happy to see you. I will post a picture with me wearing it in a day or so. I will look for him, next time I go back and take a picture and actually buy something as well.

On the way back home from the ferry a funny thing happened. A, went out front to look for a cab, I was looking out at the street and saw someone looking over at Cory. This guy's grill looked like it had caked on tobacco from the time of Tutankhamen. So, I looked directly at him, and he is still smiling at Corey. So I am like, "what?" He busts out before I can even say anything, "How much for her?" Me and Candice look at each other and before we can decide whether to curse dude out or bust our laughing he adds, "One million camel!" I just look down and say, "Naw man." Before I can compose myself, he says, "two million camel!" Candice and I just look at each other and bust out laughing. The cab came a second later. We hopped in and headed back to our flat.

Anna Aish Henna

Day by Day
by Orlando A.

There are no supermarkets in Luxor, or I haven't found one yet. The closest thing to one I have seen so far is a place expats call plastic alley, because anything (plastic) you want you can find there. They pretty much have everything. The first time there, I suspected there were more floors, last time I was there I went up about three and there seem to be about three more. The good thing about them is that their prices are fixed more or less. They don't bargain and you know what you are paying for stuff, if you can read arabic numbers, which I can, for the most part. Just slow and easy.

So I bought a turkish coffee maker set, or as I was told it is called, a tanica , from plastic alley and it cost 54 LE or less than $10. I was thrilled. I went out and about shopping in a hurry the other day and was offered AAA batteries - 2 for 160LE or about 24 dollars. Of course I walked away, I bought them about a block away for 6 LE, or less than a dollar at brother Ali's spot. Always be prepared to walk out of fruitless negotiations. Never need anything that badly here. There are always two prices and probably a few more, never buy anything here without knowing how much it cost.

My man told me to tell anyone who comes at me with such insane prices, anna aish henna, which he said translates to - I live here, I know everything. When he said it, he said it with such outrage and passion, it was just pure love. Now if I can remember that, I should be fine. Anna aish henna.