Starting Off Again (Egyptian Arabic Alphabet Primer)

Well, yesterday I began with doing the things I have to do to get back to Egypt.  At the same time Corey was sending off her applications to Cornell and a couple of other schools.  So we will see which way things ultimately go, but for now I am learning Arabic.  I feel like such a kid.  At least I have my younger children to learn with me.  The reason I feel like such a kid is because I have to learn the ABCs all over again.  I mean, here I am, just about at 40, learning the Arabic ABCs.  To make matters even funnier, I have this youtube link that I watch with the kids with some children saying them, sort of like Sesame Street. I got it from this blog where this guy presents plenty of learning resources.  I will share them below, just in case any of you might want to learn Arabic with me, while I am learning.

Anyway, here is the video:

Like I said, at least the younger ones are really getting into it, especially CJ and Jacob.  Asari too though.  One kind of funny thing is that Jacob doesn't know all of his English ABCs, but he is learning these, so it is kind of funny.  I am sure he will do fine though.  I was asking them what one of the letters was and he knew it.  If I can do this every day for a few weeks, we will have a good start.

Some things to consider about the Arabic ABCs.  The reason I am learning them is because they use a completely different script to write.  In addition, they write from right to left.  So, if you really want to know how to get around, it is wise to learn the written language.  Another fact, the letters have four different ways they can be written, depending on the position they are in, within a word.  First letter, last letter, middle position or alone.  Arabic only has three vowels, the first letter - alif, and the last two (I haven't gotten to them yet).

The way we are doing this is learning about seven a day, while we learn them we learn the symbol and the name.  I am going to get the kids writing them more too.  In addition, I have to start incorporating a few simple words.  So if you are going to learn along, learn the first seven letters today.  Alif, beh, teh, theh, geem, hah and kah.  They will be listed on a chart below us.  I am going to list all my learning resources so I can use this blog to chart my progress.  Kind of there and back again to Egypt.

So this blog is the first resource, I am going to copy a bit verbatim from him, just in case his blog goes down, we will have it.  However, I have to give him proper respect.  His thing is learning through music, which I think is an excellent idea.  I will be living on his site for a while, I suggest you do the same.  One other thing to note about Arabic and language in general (although I typically struggle learning them) , language is regional.  So don't be put off if a sound of a letter in one source is slightly different than from another.  For example, in Egypt, up in Cairo, they pronounce the J sound more in words, in Luxor it is more the G sound.  You will get corrected too, but at least you are understood.  But it is all part of the experience.

http://egyptianarabiccourse.blogspot.com/2008/03/egyptian-arabic-alphabet.html

ا - alif, as in "Ah" آه which means "ow," like an expression of pain or frustration

ب - ba, as in "Bahebbak" بحبك which means "I love you"

ت - ta, as in "Tani" تاني which means "another" or "again"

ث - ta or sa, as in "Sawani" ثواني which means "seconds" from the same word as "tani." While this letter in Standard Arabic is a "tha," it has merged with the letters "ta" and "siin" now. For old and common words "ta" is more common, and from new, borrowed, or reborrowed wor.ds "sa" is more likely.

ج - giim, as in "Gameel" جميل which means "beautiful." In Egypt, it is usually pronounced as a "ga" as opposed to the Standard Arabic "ja."

ح - Ha (7a), as in "Habibi" حبيبي which means "my darling." This sound does not exist in English, but it is like a regular Ha in English only "harsher." A friend has described it to me as a "phone sex 'h'"

خ - xa (5a or kha), as in "Khudni" خدني which means "take me." This sound is like kinda the ch in Bach from german, the french 'r' in "quatre" or to an English speaker probably sounds like they are about to spit

د - daal, as in "Dunya" دنيا which can mean "the world," "the prevailing environment" or "everyone."

ذ - daal or zaal, as in "Dayeb" ذائب which means "melting" often in love. Like "tha," "dhaal" loses its standard Arabic pronunciation, becoming a "da" sound for old and common words and a "za" sound for newer, borrowed, or reborrowed words from Standard Arabic.

ر - ra, as in "Rooh" روح which means "soul." It is trilled like the Spanish r.

ز - zay, as in "Zaman" زمن which means "time" as in the 4th dimension

س - sin, as in "Sawa" سوا which means "together"

ش - shiin, as in "Shuf" شوف which means "see," "look," or "look at"

ص - Saad, as in "Sabr" صبر which means "patience." The Saad is like an English s but with more rounding of the lips to produce a deeper hiss.

ض - Daad, as in "Da3" ضاع which means "lost" or "wasted." Daad is like the English d in the same relationship as Saad is to s.

ط - Ta (6a), as in "Tayr" طير which means "bird." Ta is in the same relationship with the English T as Daad is with d

ظ - Da or Za, as in "Zalim" ظالم which means "unjust" or "oppressive." This sound is DHa in Standard Arabic, but either becomes a "Za" sound or a "Da" sound in Egyptian.

ع - Ayn (3ayn), as in "3ayni" عيني which means "my eye" (a very common term of endearment in Arabic). 3ayn has no equivalent in English and I don't know how to describe it. Just read and listen for it. For those who know linguistics, its the voiced version of ح

غ - ghayn, as in "Ghali" غالي which means "precious." It's like a ga sound only it's like you're gargling water.

ف - fa, as in "Farah" فرح which means "joy" or "happiness"

ق - qaff (9aff, 2aff), as in "Qalbi" قلبي which means "my heart." Originally this sound is like an English k only deeper in the throat, as if you were choking, but in Egypt it is usually pronounced as a glottal stop like the sound in between Uh and Oh in Uh-Oh. So "Qalbi" becomes "Albi."

ك - kaff (Chaff), as in "Keef" كيف which means "how" east of Egypt.

ل - laam, as in "Leel" ليل which means "night"

م - miim, as in "Majnun" مجنون which means "mad" or "crazy"

ن - nuun, as in "Nar" نار which means "fire"

ه - ha, as in "Hawa" هوى which is one of the many words for love "hawa"

و - waaw, as in "Waheshtini" وحشتيني which is how you tell a girl "I miss you"

ي - ya, as in "Ya habibi" يا حبيبي which means "oh my darling." To address someone like "oh" or "hey" in English, you say "ya" before the name or title you are calling them.


http://www.egyptiancastle.com/main/culture/language/alphabet.htm


Another source with a nice blackboard.  If you click on his blackboard you get the sounds of the letters, he uses real player, but it is cool.   Remember, start on the top right and move to the left (ie Alif is the line that looks like 1).  The board looks cheesy but is as useful as hell.  You have to go to his site, linked above to use the sounds.  I only copied the image so you could see it first.


I am going to make another post later today about the other thing I learned yesterday.  Until then, take it easy and PEACE.

What's Going On

Hmm, Let’s see... To get started, I should make note that we left Luxor, Egypt, as of the Spring, so we have been back stateside since late spring. Back in the ABQ - Albuquerque. We moved back for a number of reasons, at least temporarily. School (ie - College) for the oldest, who is about to take the SAT and ACT, only a little bit late in the year, a few minor health issues of my own, which I think I was way too paranoid about, and last and least in this case, a little, but still a little homesickness. Once we got back, I was able to pull out the wax, play a bit of music and hang out with the little homies below. They grabbed their Nubian kufis and showed me a few of the new dance steps the young folks are doing nowadays - pretty far out stuff.

The fellas listening to some tunes.

Anyway, I found a journal program for the old Macbook and plan on using it more regularly, working on the blog with it. Feel free to read along, although it will be more internal about personal observations and objectives for life. At least until I get back down the road and/or get out more. It is wintertime here in Albuquerque. It is nothing compared to Chicago or the Midwest, but we see the snow on the mountains from town, and we know. Plus it does get cold at night, all the more reason to grab a blanket and some good music, maybe a good bottle of wine, or whatever.

So we are sitting in our living room, a block from the nile when I ask the oldest, Corey, about her future.  She said she wanted to go to school at UNM, the University of New Mexico, and start as soon as possible. Now, back stateside, it seems that isn’t as much the case. She is exploring the options of attending school at the American University in Cairo and even our Western Governors University, so if either of those pan out, we may see Egypt again real soon, or at least later in the summer. Either which way I am planning on returning to Egypt sometime between June and August, maybe late May, if we are lucky, after the AP testing is done this year for her. She also applied or is planning to apply to UNM, Ann Arbor, Notre Dame, and Harvard. She is a year ahead grade wise, so we will see how the chips fall and if it doesn’t work out maybe she will get another chance next year.

It is my birthday today. Making 39 is another step towards 40, which isn’t a really big deal, but will surely be a time for reflection. I always loved making jokes about people’s age, but now inching up to 40 its kind of more serious a subject. Earlier, I was thinking about the things I have done and not done, things that I wanted to do with my life so far. More on that later. What I am going to do now though is get the clock rolling on my return trip to Egypt, assuming that the school situation works out that way. Of course if the oldest ends up on the East Coast, or at Notre Dame we will have to work something else out. Meanwhile I am going to plan for life split between Cairo, Luxor and Aswan, starting as close to Summer 2011 as possible.  Below is Leah's portrait of me, apparently, that was on a nice slender day, obviously trying to get on my good side - although I don't think my eyes are that big!

Leah's Portrait of Me

From Egypt and Back Again:

I need to start a budget and savings. Right now I have bills, bills, bills. However, I think I can manage to pay them down and budget for a trip for seven if I find good deals on tickets and save save save. I am going to estimate a cost of about $680 USD per person to get to Egypt and another $1400 to get to the East coast for all of us. So the price to get to Egypt will be about $6100. Not to mention rent, and transport in Egypt which I will budget at another $2600. So from now to June - August I will need to save about $8700 USD, if I am going to make this trip a reality for all. This time I plan on selling my car, which will be paid in full, so I wont have a car note or insurance, storing a bare minimum of household goods and staying abroad for 2-3 years. In addition, it would be nice to be able to spend a little time in Europe on the way there this time. I want to go to Southern Spain, look around, see some of the Moorish architecture and influence there, maybe check France out too. We will see.

Things I need to do between now and then:

• Study Arabic more, this time the script as well...
• Study ancient Egypt focusing on Dr. Ben, DeLubcz, Temple design and other esoteric sources
• Work on my eating habits, which have not been so good as of late. I plan on returning to a largely raw food, vegetarian based diet. I will keep the journal updated on this front as well.
• Saving for travel expenses.

In addition while I am in Albuquerque, I will be traveling in the area to significant sites and taking pictures and talking about the local area. While doing so I will also be talking about the travel plans and how they are coming more into focus.

Petroglyph in Albuqerque

When we were in Egypt before I learned a little Arabic, swaya. I knew how to ask for bare necessities, get around, bless Muhammed and his family, but I couldn’t get into conversations. That will take a few years in country, but at least working day by day I can get around a bit better and maybe even learn enough to go more into the country and off the beaten path. As I learn Egyptian Arabic I will share on the board, starting tomorrow.

Some Cool Things...

• Unlike the last time, I have a base to live in, Luxor, with friends - and my own flat.
• I know Cairo and the area I want to be my base there.
• We can arrange to travel with others this time, if any are interested, and there is enough time to save your money.
• I know the things I need to bring and what to leave behind this time.
• The city of Luxor should be completing their construction project real soon, which should make the temples much nicer and hopefully more accessible.
• I plan on spending some time on the Red Sea this time.

Well that about sums up this post. I will update my photos from Egypt, once I can find the remaining ones, and might even post a few more stories of the trip back. I actually got everything which I sent back home, nothing was missing, only a single piece was damaged. That made me very happy. So hats off to Abud, my man at the post office in Luxor. He should have finished his house right across the street, on the other side of Karnak Temple, by now, talk about a view. I have to catch up with him real soon. The next time, I am going to post about a local place called Tinkertown, it is one of my favorite places to hang out with the kids when in Albuquerque.

View of the Volcanoes

Me & Mom at the Petroglyphs

Mom & the fam at the Petroglyphs

Sham el Naseem

Last week we got an invite for dinner at a friend house.  Friends tend to be more functional here than stateside, but an invite is an invite and eventually you have to take the offer.  Besides, Abud has been really helpful and good to know.  He is an Egyptian friend with plenty of potential.  So I accepted, but I didn't realize that Monday was going to be a holiday, it was Sham el Naseem, which is kind of like Easter or a spring time celebration that dates way way back to like 5000 years ago.  So I didn't know any of this when I agreed to stop over my friend, Abud's house.  He lives in a flat in Luxor, but is working on finishing his flat in Karnak, so he invited me to come see his soon to be finished flat, which is right behind the temple of Karnak.  I live right in front of Karnak so I figured why not.

I forgot to mention to Abud that we are vegetarian, because I wasn't really coming over to eat, but more to see his place and spend a bit of time.  Abud met us in front of the post office and we made our way via service car to his house, his son named Islam accompanied us.  Islam wants to be a pilot someday, but his father has the more realistic plan of him being a tour bus driver.  As I thought it over I could understand both of their viewpoints, as I went on to explain my friend who is a pilot was a playboy, I realized too late I wasn't helping Islam's case.  Abud drove his motorcycle as we rode the service bus.  I spent .60 for eight people, happy the whole way.  As we passed Luxor temple, the complex was packed.  Abud had mentioned it was going to be even more crowded later.  I will have to see it some other time.

Anyway, since I forgot to tell him I was just coming to visit or that I don't eat meat, his wife was cooking when we came in.  I figured it best to just go ahead and be polite.  We meet his daughter, Zenieb and his younger son.  Zenieb is so intelligent and loves playing with Jacob, she is a few years older than him though.  CJ joins in playing too.  We talk and I can see that Abud is somewhat distracted.  We talk about America and about Egypt, about his job and soon the meal arrives.

We sat and the obligatory molokia plates came out along with a hearty soup and Egyptian flat bread.  We ate and were very happy.  Later a huge tray of rice and lamb came out.  We started to stare at each other.  It smelled delicious, but I remember the conversation I had with the horse the other day about eating animals.  But then I know what is going to happen if I send it back, I will get the evil evil eye.  So I tell the kids to dig in, this is the first lamb we have eaten in Egypt.  It smells wonderful and will probably be pretty tasty insofar as meat goes, I think, Corey looks and says, I don't eat hooven animals, Leah digs deep in and Asari looks confused.  I explain to Corey in a whisper, "if we don't finish this plate, she is going to be MAD."  I can see Abud's wife, Iman setting the large platter for their family near ours and looking out the corner of her eye.  I grab a piece of lamb and chew.

I don't like meat, I don't eat hooven animals either and I don't like rice, however I don't disrespect anyones house.  I especially don't encourage the wrath of Egyptian housewives either.  So I encourage the kids to eat eat eat, reminding Corey that she still loves fish and that if she doesn't dig in too, the next time she will see one will be when she is swimming in the ocean.  Meanwhile I look and see Iman staring over, very inquisitively out of the corner of her eye.  We are all eating, a second later, Abud asks, "more?"  We have half the tray left.  We decline.  A few minutes later Iman leaves into the kitchen.  We can see she is angering.  By the time she returns, the tray is nearly empty.  She relaxes, we are all happy.

I have been invited to dinner before and explained my eating to local friends and they don't understand.  Egyptians don't eat meat every day, but when you are invited you are expected to eat something, and in this case I think Abud added fuel to the fire by insinuating somehow that Iman should have known to make chicken  or fish, which just made matters worse.  However, since the tray was nearly empty, we got a smile and a reprieve, but I still feel bad, both for Iman and for the sheep, it was a no win situation, even if the food was delicious.  As we began eating, Abud brought out two huge Pepsi's and I could see CJ licking his lips.  I am like, none for the little two.  They look deeply disturbed, and I give them the look.  They shut up.

A second later, Leah spills her soda.  This allows me to excuse them from soda, but we have nothing else to drink.  As we finish dinner, I ask for tea.  Abud is disturbed.  He explains, apologizing, I didn't know you drank tea with your meal, normally, we drink tea after the meal.  I couldn't even begin to explain that tea and salad would have probably been enough, maybe with some beans or ful.  Anyway, we enjoyed the dinner and after we headed out for our trip to Karnak.

We catch a cab with Islam and Abud drives.  The cab driver is kind of Smokey Robinson, a real space cadet.  He turns up his music which is really nice, but a bit loud.  A woman is singing, in Arabic as the day starts to wane.  The music is nearly hypnotic, traditional, beautiful.  The driver reaches in his special hiding place for a special cigarette.  Islam explains to the driver that it isn't a good idea.  The driver explains why it is the best of things, of course all in Arabic.  Candice and I look at each other.  We reach Karnak and their is a hill leading up to the house.  The driver is driving an old Peugeot and it stutters as we all wonder if it can make it.  He makes a second attempt, still no go.  An old man is staring at us make the attempt.  He tries again, backing up, and makes it.  We start to think he is a pretty good driver.  As we prepare to congratulate him he bumps the tree in front of Abud's family house.  He knocks his grill plate off.  We all stifle our laughter.  He is at ease after a few minutes, confused, but at ease.

We meet Abud's family, he is still on the way.  We meet the head of the house, who we assume is his brother (he wasn't interested in making it clear himself), but could have been his father too, he said Abu, but that could mean head of household or father, we still aren't sure.  Later we meet his other brother, and his mother and sister.  They are all very nice, and we sit outside, then inside, and appreciate the day.  Later, when Abud arrives, he takes us to his unfinished flat, which has the best view of Karnak temple I have ever seen.  The sun sets behind the temple as I attempt some pictures on my iphone and promise to return with a proper camera some morning in the future.  What a way to bring in the spring... Egypt is very beautiful and its people while complex, complex, complex are just as beautiful but with an asterisk.

More Information on Sham El Nesseem:

Sham El Nesseem is an Ancient Egyptian celebration and it follows the Coptic Calendar (Which is in a way the extension of the Ancient Egyptian Calendar).

Sham El Neseem accordingly is not a fixed date on the Gregoian calendar (or solar calendar we use today), (Something like the differences between Hijri and Gregorian), It coincides with the first Monday after the Coptic Easter (For this year on 27/3/2008).

So for the year 2008 Sham El neseem will be on Monday 28th of April, as Kalooka said.

For a historical background about Sham El Neseem, read on:

Sham El Neseem could have been celebrated in Ancient Egypt as early as 4500 years ago. It was then related to agriculture and fertility religious rites. The name is derived from the Ancient Egyptian name for the harvest season "Shamo" meaning the "renewal of life", during which Egyptians presented offrands of salted fish, onions and lettuce to their deities. Colored Eggs, a symbol of rebirth, were also hung in temples.

Later on that festival was associated with Christianity and the Coptic faith and related to the Coptic Easter as explained above, the name was corrupted from "Shamo" to "Shom" (coptic) or "Shamm" (Arabic) which of course means smelling and "El neseem", meaning "breeze" was added at an even later date. So the full name became "Sham El Neseem" or "Smelling the Breeze"

Today the celebration of "Sham El Neseem" is a typical all Egyptians (Moslems and Copts) feast demonstrating our multiple cultural layers and the continued influences we have maintained over the years. It also demonstrates the religious tolerance which allowed religious symbols and occasions to move freely accross religious boundaries thus further enhancing the fabric of the Egyptian Society.

Sham El Neseem as celebrated today is a homage to spring, the season where life is renewed. Egyptians on that day go out on picnics where traditional foods inherited from the ancient ages are consumed (Feseekh which is a putrified salted fish, green onions, scallions, lettuce and luppini Beans (tirmis)).

Source:

http://www.touregypt.net/featurestories/shamelnaseen.htm

Additional note - our driver to the post office warned us we would probably be filled with salted fish, with a disturbed look on his face.  I like the salted fish good enough, and it is usually inexpensive, so for our hosts to serve lamb probably meant they were going out of their way for us even more and was not lost on me.

Luxor Taxicab Drivers (Part 2)

I had forgotten about our previous experience riding with a cab driver here named Michael, until we ran into him again earlier today.  He really deserves a blog entry all to himself, so it was good to see him again.  Michael is pretty cool, he is Christian and he speaks a decent amount of English and went on to tell us about his experience attending school and later on being an X-Ray technician.  He still is an X-Ray tech and he also drives a cab.  So we were driving along and he had asked me to take his number for use if we need him to drive in the future.  I figured it was a reasonable request, so I went ahead and put his number in my phone.

When I was done, I figured it would be a good idea to take a picture of him driving, so I could remember and place a face with the name.  As I took the picture, Michael looked back and assured me that the picture wasn't going to be good, so he asked me to hand him my phone.  I handed him the phone and he proceeded as he was driving to try and figure out how to take the picture on the iphone.  He took the picture, looked at it and said, no, the image must be perfect.  So in X-Ray tech mode, he pulls to the median, not the side of the road and retakes the picture.  "We must take a perfect image."  In semi broken English, correlating the picture to an X-Ray, I didn't know whether to laugh or cry, I decided to laugh and enjoy the ride.

We make it home and then on the way out of the driveway as he is backing away a small child is playing right behind the cab, where he can't see.  Candice looks and sees the child and between me and her yelling and the child completely oblivious and the driver backing out, we all three nearly had heart attacks.

So when I hop in the cab today, the driver smiles and says, hello, Orlando.  I look, and I recognize him as Candice says, hello Michael.  He looks serious and remembers our last meeting, stating, the baby I almost had a heart attack, "I didn't see.  If you hadn't seen him, it bothered me all day, I was so scared."  We agreed and rode with him.  Later, as we were headed back to town, a policeman is in front of us.  He is blocking the way on a motorcycle, deliberately slowing traffic.  For the record, the officer did start it.

However, Michael decides to play chicken with the policeman.  Later as we hit Nile Corniche, Michael is more sure of himself and decides to really play chicken with the police officer.  He cuts him off hard and leaves him in the dust.  We all laugh as I wonder not if, but when, he is going to get pulled over.  Michael interrupts my thoughts as we pass the light, moving past the temple saying, "he knows I can handle my cab, so he is okay with me."  No sooner than he says this he bumps the curb.  I hold my laugh and horror way down, deep down and just decide to enjoy the rest of the ride.  He is a good driver, but funny things always seem to happen when he is driving.

Tel el Armana

This trip started out a bit delayed because I didn't realize how far away Tel el Armana was from Luxor.  This is probably the site closest to Cairo, but still a nice distance from there as well.  When Akhenaton, known as the heretic Pharaoh fully came into power he decided that he wanted to enact a few changes.  One of the changes that was somewhat major was changing from the worship of the gods and the pantheon at Karnak (Thebes) and instead worshiped the god Atun.  Atun is cited often as a refination of the god Amen-Ra, or the leading up god to, interim, leading to the god worshiped today as the one God, Jehovah or Yahweh.  Whatever may be, it was a singular god concept and it predated the later adapted Hebrew mythology.

Another change instituted by Akhenaton was the complete transport of the capital city from Thebes to a new city, created from nothing, hundreds of miles away in a remote location, now known as Tel el Armana.  Later, after the priesthood at Thebes had the opportunity to regain their positions of authority, they returned the favor by having Akhenaton and his city removed from the face of the planet, for all practical purposes.  However, the remains stand and tell the story of Akhenaton and Nefertiti.  This is relevant because much is made of his legacy and the fact that he is said to be the father of Tutankhamen (Tutankhaten) who much is made of due to the discovery of his mummy and all.

So, we, mainly I, decided it might be worth a trip, at least to breath in the air and get a feel for the atmosphere of the place.  I had the feeling that it might be the stuff that dreams are made of.  So we woke up at six in the morning and headed out of town with our driver, Hussain Obama.  Hussain, if you have been following, is the driver who took us to Aswan, after I slammed his son's hand in the car door.  He is the driver who invited us to dinner and proposed making me a financing partner in his tour operating business, while I tried to explain that I could help him, yes, but finance him, no.

So, I ran price comparisons, asked a few drivers about the cost and distance and they all agreed it was very far and would be expensive.  The trip was probably worth it.  I paid 1000 Egyptian which is about 180 USD.  I suspect I could have gotten a slightly better deal, but I wanted to also go to the monastery Deir el Muharraq as well, this being where Jesus is purported to have spent six months after the issues he had with Herod, or more to the point Herod had with him being a possible son of God, redeemer of Israel, etcetera, etcetera.  So Hussain agreed to add that trip in, and plus, since we were traveling as seven, having him drive was the best option.  If it was just me and the missus, I would have dealt with the train and such, but with kids, that is a whole 'nuther story.

So we hop in the car with this huge bag of fruit, that no one really wants to eat except me and the kids here and there.  I think everyone was afraid of having to go on the road.  Me, I figured fruit would be a better slow release than water, but I didn't relay that to them.  So needless to say, we didn't get water until much later and they were mad.  However, by eating mad fruit, I was quite hydrated and didn't get thirsty or have to use it but twice on the journey.  However, the bathrooms, the bathrooms.  There aren't many on the road, especially suitable for women and children and the stops we did make encouraged me to wait for better options that never came.

So anyway, we drove on for close to three hours, encouraged to be British once again.  We still got police escort after police escort.  Each state provided a new escort through their municipality although I didn't feel particularly threatened.  In fact, the further in country we got the more friendly smiles and waves we got, although mostly from the kids.  Adults were friendly and a few waved but most were more curious, I think it is safe to say we were a bit off the beaten path.  I must say a few of the cities, Asyut and Sohag seemed quite nice, perhaps worth spending some time, assuming the bathroom issue was dealt with by upfront research.  However, the closer to Minya you get the more wound up into the history of modern Egypt you get, this is the center of the uprisings from the nineties, and the police presence probably speaks best about this.

 
We drove and drove and finally got to the area across the nile from Tel el Armana at about twelve or one.  We had to wait for the ferry which transported the van and that took about fifteen minutes.  We arrived at the complex and purchased tickets, you should have exact change, and entered.  A policeman and a state sanctioned guide with keys accompanied us.  They were both pretty cool, but both interested in rushing us along as well.  They knew of our plans to make it to the monastery, and we did just make it before dusk.  So this might be a trip to plan for a whole day.

The site itself is massive and stretches for miles.  The temple proper is said to have been enormous at the time of its creation.  The remains still tell a remarkable story and are accessible, however only with coaxing.  They are fenced.  The tombs are accessible for the most part as well and they stretch for miles, some in really remote locations.  There is a north and a south range.  I viewed a few in the North area, and declined viewing those in the south for two reasons.  First, I am not into viewing tombs as I view that as a desecration and second, all the items from the tomb are usually in a museum.  Finally, the trek, with the kids might have proved a bit too much.  Going to the tombs we visited was more than enough, I wanted to get a certain understanding, and I asked the spirits of those who were once interned for their blessing and understanding.

I much preferred the temple and palace sites, and would have liked more time to sit and contemplate.  I spent some time wondering what life would have been like, and the enormous task Akhenaton and the people of the time faced.  Moving a capital is simply unimaginable, when you consider the scope.  Could you imagine moving Washington DC to Kansas or Central Illinois?  Keep in mind this was both a political and religious capital.  I imagine the resulting work was much like the atmosphere I experienced at Deir El Muharraq later on, tranquil, peaceful and serene.  However, most of that has been erased by the returning priesthood who were returning the favor of Akhenaton after his death.

  After imaging life at the court, viewing the remains of the courtyard and garden, we moved on to the temple and walked about and spent some time talking to the officer accompanying us.  The drive between sites was about ten to fifteen minutes each time we wanted to see another area.  The city must have been something in its prime.  All left now is dust and a few remaining rises from the desert sand.  Much of the best has been shipped worldwide to museums and private collections.

Following this trip we left back via the ferry to head on to the Deir el Muharraq, which was about an hour or so drive away.  Our driver had to ask for directions a couple times there and back as well, since this is a bit off the beaten path.

This was a very interesting location since it has the history attached to the baby Jesus story.  So as we arrived we found a gated monastery complex which was quite impressive.  Actually the monastery is gated twice, the first entrance is into a general courtyard which had restaurants and restrooms.  The restrooms were deplorable, I figured monks might tend to take better care of them, but apparently not.  I do believe they had just had a festival and were unwinding, so perhaps that was the cause.

Anyway, we headed in to the second courtyard and it was very beautiful.  Inside were two ancient churches, and we waited for a guide, a monk who asked if I was Christian and what I wanted to see and more, why.  I explained and he smiled and was very happy.  He showed me into a church building way into the back and explained the history of the church and the site.  My time was very limited, but I did manage to speak with him for a minute and visit the church on the site and offer prayers and thanks.

Our drivers left us for a minute, but when we returned, they were already back in the courtyard waiting.  The monastery was very interesting and deserved more time, but night was coming on fast.  We watch the sun go down within an hour.  The police escort left us, but at each checkpoint we were expected and sent expeditiously on.  We passed through the same towns at night and they took on a whole new perspective.  I think most Egyptians prefer the night.  I guess with the weather being so hot in the summer, you can surely understand.

We made it back home probably at near midnight.  Everyone was tired.  Halfway though the trip back I realized the driver was smoking instead of chatting incessantly, so I asked nicely if he could stop.  He obliged.  I could tell from Candice reaction, he had been smoking for a bit longer than I realized, I was listening to music, drifting off.  So besides a bit of smoking and dirty bathrooms, I would say it was a worthwhile journey.  If I ever made this trip again I would probably do it from Cairo, pack lunch and drinks more wisely and definitely discuss restroom options early in the planning.  In addition, it might even be wise to book a local room, however that might present a whole new set of problems.

• I will upload additional photos as time permits.

Vibing

The last few days we have been home, working on schoolwork, working with the kids and their schoolwork and trying to get back into the raw food thing.  Actually we have been into the raw food thing for a few days now.  The next trip we are planning is to see the area where Akhenaton (Amenhotep IV) built his romanticized city of old Armarna, or Tell al-Armana, which is said to be (from my understanding) the place where he moved the capital from Thebes (modern day Luxor) after he developed the first system of monotheism on record worldwide, to worship the one God in the form or Atun.

Now, personally, I think the ancient Egyptians had an understanding of God we can’t fathom now, and early on they understood that their was only one God and the various gods we see throughout Egypt are aspects of that unity and the pantheons symbolize far more than this.  But that is besides the point, I am just writing about what is said historically concerning Akhenaton.  Of course Akhenaton was married to Nefertiti, and had his stuff together for a minute, until he was removed abruptly from office and later labeled as a heretic.  Those priests of the day were apparently a powerful lot.

Akhenaton is also often attributed with being the originator of the psalms now given to David.  This also reminds me of the verse attributed to David concerning the ants.  Akhenaton appeals to my vegetarian side, because he was said to be such a peaceful brother.  He was said to have took things to the level of not even harming an insect.  Being a pharaoh, I imagine that might prove hard.  Whatever the case any look at the artwork from the period leaves no doubt that these were black folks, at least Akhenaton.  My man has some huge lips, but once again, that is besides the point.  He was one of the pharaohs that initially sparked my interest in visiting.  So we are planning a trek up there, to where his capital was in its heyday, which will be about a two hour drive from Luxor, from what I heard.  It should cost around 200LE I am estimating, but I will get back with exact numbers after I arrange transit.  Only thing, I have heard there isn’t much left there and it is a sprawling site.  On top of that, mainly, there are the tombs, which is a whole other story, for another time.

As an add on visit, I am going to stop at an ancient city said to be the site of where Jesus and the holy family stayed for a time when they fled from Herod into Egypt, Dier Al-Muharraq.  There is a monastery near a mountain, the first Christian church is said to be there, consecrated 60AD, and nearby a cave where they are said to have lived for six months, fulfilling the prophecy found in Isaiah 19, 19-21.  I will provide more details when I return.

Other info:

• Breakdown of the name Akhenaton via the web:
• Ya-Khu-n-Yat-Un meaning "(Ya) Oh (Khu) glorified/splendour (n) of the (Yat) Divine/Holy (Un) Spirit Light/Lord
• Thebes, the ancient city is pronounced as tibbs, as in they call me Mr. Tibbs.
• Another quote: The butcher relenteth not at the bleating of the lamb; neither is the heart of the cruel moved with distress. But the tears of the compassionate are sweeter than dew-drops, falling from roses on the bosom of spring.
  --Akhenaton? (c.BC 1375)

Hold on now!

How come I just came from a trip out shopping.  I had to pay my phone bill, so I took a cab to downtown Luxor, which is a small city, about the size of maybe Hammond.  So afterwards, we are walking from the cell phone company to the fruit guy, about a mile away to buy some fruit and we see this dread-locked Egyptian at this art gallery on the block.  One of my friends had told me about him, previously, saying he was cool and all.  So he beckons us to come in his gallery.

I agree, even though everyone asks us to stop for tea and coffee because that is the way here, and we have learned to say no, politely.  Since this was a dread and my friend had vouched for him previously, we went in and had coffee.  Turn out dude all into astrology and is even a tea leaf, and coffee cup reader.  I am like, whoah, he getting kinda out there, but I am still interested.  Then he has a picture up on the wall of his baby, he says "this one (picture) ain't for sell."  He tells us its his baby.  She is in Germany.  We like cool, "you gonna visit her soon?"  He like, "naw, her mom wanted a baby and that was that."  He had a funny nonchalant look on his face.  We like WTF, but he a hippie, even if this is MUSLIM Egypt.  Egypt is a very conservative country, but some people aren't.  Apparently he had gotten with a German national, etcetera, etcetera.

Part of me is like, that is cool, as he is talking about free love or whatever.  The other part of me is like this cat is crazy, and the only non family oriented person I have met in my whole time here.  Everyone has huge families here, at least four or five kids, and they are proud of it.  When people find out I am American and have five kids, I get a gleam of respect, not to mention pretty much instant love.  Egyptians are pretty much cool as shit minus the whole tourist thing anyway.

The coffee come.  We had both asked for no sugar, me and my wife, C.  When I tasted mine it had sugar, so I switch with dude, since he hadn't started his.  I sip a bit from my C's cup.  He says looking at me, "you going to let me read your cup?"  I am like, cool.  Before he looks at my cup he starts telling me how much I like to give advice, and how much I know, not how much I think I know.  I guess he thinks this is my nature, which it might be.  Later he confirms that he thinks this is my nature.  I think he is trying to appeal to my wife, as in, this guys thinks he knows it all, don't he?

I am like, despite all that, even if it is in my nature to want to give a lot of advice and even if I know a few things, it don't mean I know everything.  On top of that, I wouldn't perpetrate knowing more than anyone else, unless they asked for advice.  Also, whatever our nature is, part of the trip on this particular plane, is trying to transcend our nature.  Then to top it all off, he says that I am friendly, but not trusting.  I don't trust anyone, but like everyone early on.  I am thinking to myself, 'you are teaching me to change this right now.'

So we sitting there talking and something tell me its time to go.  More than one thing actually, my bat senses are tingling...  So we say goodbye and head on down the block, to the fruit man.  Two minutes later, C is like she floating like she just had an epidural or something. 

A few minutes later, I am feeling it a bit, but I can see not nearly as much as her.  Dude then put some stuff in our coffee!  We go to a little cafe we go to from time to time just to sit down and cool out.  Especially C, who had got the brunt of it, remember, I switched out cups.  We are both like, wow.  What did dude think?  Meanwhile all the colors are starting to look really interesting.  Noticing things I never noticed in the cafe before, etcetera, etcetera. 

Anyway, on our way back home, I run into my friend, and ask him about this guy and all.  He is laughing, calms down - he like yeah, they be putting stuff in the coffee sometimes, first time for free, because they think you going to like it, next time a cup cost $100 dollars.  I am like he don't know me real well, he ain't going to see me again.  My money is my money, my wife is my wife.  People crazy all over the world!  Talk about a crazy day.  But still you got to love it.

Temple of Philae

After the success with our trip to Abu Simbel we decided to roll with Akmed on the trip out to Philae as well.  We also went to the site of the unfinished obelisk but really, I think that is one that most people could do without.  Plenty of walking and breathtaking views, but I would have rather spent more time in Philae not to mention visiting some other sites.

Philae is located on an island on the Nile, it sits on a site other than its original, which was pointed out by our felucca captain, as well as numerous other sources.  The original site is just about flooded thanks to the UNESCO project which also brought the Aswan dam.  The temple complex was moved stone by stone to the new site.  It is a wonderful site.

One thing that struck me about all the sites in this area, especially Philae was that even though it is dedicated to Isis, Horus plays heavily in the design and reliefs as well.  Horus is seen both as the suckled child and the adult who has been transformed.

At Philae in the back, in a poorly lit room, I encountered a British tour group where the guide was explaining how the ‘Black’ mother and child, Isis and Horus, were the basis for the later Christian faith.  The relief really does say it all, although I prefer the image present at Dendera.

The temple complex is massive, stretching not as much as Karnak, but much larger than Luxor.  The felucca ride was a thrill, visiting the island.  The Nile water and the scenery are awe inspiring.  This is another must see temple site.  It can’t be stressed enough how much the southern sites deserve as much attention as the pyramids.

• Photos
• Info on Philae

Abu Simbel

 So our new friend Akmed, who we met in Aswan was primarily a tour consolidator.  He owned a tour bus, or a share in the tour bus, a nice well maintained Toyota, and he offered to arrange a tour for us to Abu Simbel and another trip to Dendera and so on.  I was very skeptical since I read from the tour books, the Lonely Planet being my favorite, that it was better to deal with places like Thomas Cook and the more established agencies.  In addition, most people will warn you against tour touts and such, plus the questionable nature and sales tactics of bigger Egyptian cities insofar as touts in general.

The problem is that Akmed came in with really great prices for every single tour and he kind of reminded me of a younger version of my uncle Jerry, for better and worse.  Next time in Aswan I will get a photo of  him.  Anyway, he starts off with the price on a cruise ship which is very reasonable per night, counting food and everything, but I am not a big fan of cruise boats and besides, there are seven of us.  A reasonable price for two or three is easily unreasonable when you multiply that price by seven.  However, given the good prices he gathered for the hotel, and the reasonable prices offered on the packages, I decided to give him a go for the tours.  I insisted that I would pay for each at the end of the day for each particular tour.  He agreed, although with a deposit of about 15%.

So with that stated, he informed me that it would be necessary to wake up very early to make it to Abu Simbel.  3AM.  I agreed quickly, remembering how hot it can be in Abu Simbel.  It is really that hot.  You are pretty much on the border with Sudan when you travel that far south in Egypt.  Plus the trip is in conjunction with a police convoy that carries everyone down to Abu Simbel, so there wasn’t much leeway with the time.

So Akmed arranged a wake up call and breakfast for us, all included.  The ticket prices for the actual temple were not included.  This is typically the case when you are not dealing with Thomas Cook or more established tour companies.  Still the price we got was in my opinion, reasonable.  We paid 450 LE, which is about 82 USD for seven passengers, or roughly 12 dollars each for a 280 Km or 174 miles trip each way, 388 miles total.  We could have economized and taken the bus for 21LE each, or about  25 USD total for all, but when I looked over at the kids I figured it might be worth the extra expense.  The breakfast was so so, but I wasn’t hungry anyway, it was packaged in pretty little boxes with string.  It consisted of a boiled egg, cheese, pita bread, and jam.  Not much, but at 3AM I was more interested in sleeping than eating.

The trip was comfortable, I actually slept most of the way, we had the 14 seat minibus to ourselves.  The driver controlled the air, but was just liberal enough with the controls to avoid me complaining.  I think it took about three hours or so to get down to the temple.  There isn’t much around for what I could see.  The site itself is magnificent and actually hosts two separate temples.  It is surrounded by a near park space and majestically overlooks the Nile.

  The entrance in to the temple sites was hefty at 90 LE each, or 16 dollars.  No student discounts, although children under twelve pay half.  Well, sometimes you have to pay to really see things you really really want to see.  So we paid, altogether 405 LE or 73 USD and went in.  I was still thinking about how I was getting it stuck to me and why this site, the most southern cost so much when I looked up and saw the magnificent statues above the entrance.  In addition, this is the only site I have been to with actual artifacts in the temple area.  So maybe it was worth it.  Of course it was.

Ramses II is seen throughout, but the temple is dedicated to Horus, Amen and Ptah.  The second temple is said to be dedicated to Hathor in the form of Nefertari, Ramses II wife.  I couldn’t recommend the temple enough, especially since photography isn’t allowed inside.  Next time I visit I plan on bringing a spy cam however…  Anyways as we made our way from temple to temple and around the grounds I couldn’t help but think that despite the hassles of arriving, it really was worth every cent, waking early and having to wait a few minutes in the baking sun for the van to return.  Of course, like most other sites there are touts and sales pitches as you leave the site, some worse than others.  However, after you have seen Abu Simbel, you probably have seen one of the best preserved temples in Egypt.

• For more pictures of the trip please visit the photo album on flickr.

Aswan

I was kind of in a hurry to head out and actually see Aswan because I had put it off due to the weather and trying to get school work done and then flooding related to the weather in the region. However, I've wanted to go to what I will call Nubia proper for almost as long I wanted to go to Egypt period. Why Nubia? Because that is where the Nubians are! Who are the Nubians? The Nubians are the very colorful brothers and sisters who have created all these temples and stuff in Southern Egypt, the place where civilization began!

So, we head off at about seven o'clock in the AM, which meant we had to wake up at about six o'clock. Normally we go to sleep at about two in the morning, it is normal here. No matter how hard you try and fight it, this is a night time locale. So I am up packing to at least midnight, probably closer to two, but I don’t remember. So we wake up at six, and I have booked a ride with this brother named Husain Obama (No that was really his name), Abdul for short.

We met Husain on the way back from one of the local markets, after shopping for groceries. He was with his son and very happy to see us and offered us a ride which we gladly accepted. As we were getting in the car his son, who he said everyone called Obama, because he looked like him (he had his ears) was so happy as well. We get in the car and his son is standing by my door as I close it. We are waiting for him to get in, he says nothing. We are all like what? We look around at the door and his fingers are inside the door jam. I had closed them in. He didn’t cry at all, Egyptians don’t typically like to cry or see tears, at least men. So I open the door and he is whimpering. Talk about feeling bad. He is cool though, and so is his father.

Come to find out, they are both Nubian descendants and he is wanting to go back home anyway, So I call him the night before we travel and he is cool, ready to go in the AM. Only problem, he pulls up in a smaller car, not a wagon, because he thought only I was going. So we pile in and we head on the four hour trip south.

On the way, we stopped in Kom Ombo to pick up water and in between touts of future business dealings, Husain encourages us to try some fresh sugar cane juice. The area has a huge sugar cane factory and as a result also probably has some of the best sugar cane juice imaginable. However, I decline and instead opt to buy some bananas, strawberries and water at the local market area. Maybe 1USD for all the strawberries we (seven) could eat for a day, ditto for bananas.

About an hour or so later we arrived in Aswan. The ride from Luxor cost 250LE, it should range from about 200-250LE which is about 40-45 USD. However, I liked Hussain, so I tipped him very well and headed on to my hotel. My hotel of choice, the Kelany was full. On close inspection, it looked like a fair choice, but unknown to me, it was a feast going on so there were plenty of Egyptians in town. So, I decided to walk the Nile and see what I could find in my budget range, which was about $50 US per room. Apparently this was a big feast because everything in town was booked. After wandering for a minute we met a Nubian shop keeper who wanted to be helpful, and suggested calling his cousin who could help us, he was an agent, etcetera, etcetera. Candice is looking at me like, are you really considering this? I am like, well, what do we have to lose?

So we meet Akmed, who reminded me of a younger version of my Uncle Jerry. Real laid back, but since he was Muslim, no drink. Anyway, Akmed, goes into this hotel we had went in ten minutes ago that was booked and gets us rooms. Normally, this would have made me angry to no ends, but when in Rome, or in this case Egypt. The clerk explains that Akmed is a friend and so he has to oblige. I am at the point of not caring, only waiting to hear the price, see the padding...

So I am waiting for the price. If the price is too expensive, I had made contingency plans, I could rent the first flat of a house from this guy who was vacationing in the Hague with his wife, but I had declined the three rooms, his entire first floor, for 100 USD, as being expensive. As I am contemplating Akmed tells me the rooms are going to be 40 USD each for two. I start walking. Magically the rooms drop within seconds to 40 USD for two triples. The hotel is mediocre at best, but it is a place to sleep for the night. Would I recommend it, no. But the next night we moved to the Nubinile, near the train station for just a bit more for two triples, and that I would recommend. Nubians on staff, very clean, friendly and helpful and loving our family.

One of the reasons I love Egypt is because it is a very family oriented culture. Egyptians love children. When people see me and my big family coming, first question – is this your family. Me, yeah. Oh, you are a lucky man! Handshake, and how many kids they have. Usually about the same give or take one. Not only do Egyptians like children and families, but they tend to look out for family budgets as well. That being said it is a tourist destination, but still, on average compare that to the US where the story would be just booking the rooms without getting funny or sideways looks.

Instead of sideway looks I got looks of adoration everywhere. I mean, I have been places where people looked at me with disgust for the simple color of my skin. Here, everyone's skin was my tone or darker, and they were loving it, and me! This was not just because I had some money in my pocket – it was because both, I had money in my pocket and I had beautiful skin. That I could deal with! Proof was, even after I explained I was living in Luxor and wasn’t buying souvenirs or whatever, still, everyone had smiles on their faces loving seeing me, and happy to see me in town.

Another really funny thing is that in Luxor everyone calls me brother. Or me and Candice are the brother and sister that live down in Karnak. Other so called black folks are known as brothers and sisters too. In Aswan, brothers and sisters are known as cousin. Every time someone speaks to you and finds you are from America they are like, you are my cousin, and it is heartfelt. I had a few people really trying to figure out our situation in America, which made me think on it even more. What a strange and unique situation we as so called Afrikans in America find ourselves in, during these days and times. We are surely fortunate, but at what cost?

So our first day in Aswan, after the trip in from Luxor, we took it easy walked down the Nile and the kids and Candice indulged me as I purchased a netbook and a new camera. I gave Corey the other which I still kind of want back for her birthday and Christmas/Kwanzaa/end of year gift. I needed a replacement, how can you go to places less than 5% of our people will ever see and not take pictures? Of course I needed a camera, still, I felt like it was a waste of valuable time. However, once you give a gift you shouldn’t begrudge it…

One point of warning, Egypt is not the place to buy electronics. I knew that up front, but when you need things you need them. This is the place to pick up clothes, shoes, pharaonic gifts, all types of other things, but not electronics. The electronics will cost 30% more and be older models than available stateside. Still, after comparison shopping I found a few deals and after walking forever, we found a netbook, a camera, a place to eat mediocre western food and rested for our 3AM trip to Abu Simbel the following day. The next day we got better food, better hotel and we started venturing out. So, tomorrow I will write about our adventures with Akmed, Abu Simbel and a bit of commentary about guide books. Peace. Salaam. Hotep.

On A Felucca Waiting to Sail

I am waiting in a small sailboat known as a felucca locally, waiting to sail down the Nile. We have been in Aswan for three days. We went to Abu Simbel which is right at the border of Egypt and Sudan. That was a long morning drive. From there we came back tired and decided to relax so we went to the Shisha bar and had tea and shisha. Today, we went to Phillae, which is the temple of Isis. I have plenty of photos from this trip, that I will share. I will also update more information on the trip when I have more time at home.

We are sailing the night on the felucca, and in the morning we are supposed to stop at the temple of Kom ombo, and then on to the temple of Edfu which is dedicated to the god Horus, actually both temples are. From Edfu we are headed back to Luxor. We have seen some of the best temples in the last few days. Abu Simbel is astounding. So was Phillae. I think these temples should be top priorities to anyone trying to visit Egypt. Be warned of the heat though and try to arrange a trip in the winter and even then visit early morning. I will detail more of each trip in a seperate entry with photos as time permits.