Luxor Temple

Temples and Sites

by Orlando A

Yesterday we finally visited Luxor Temple. Luxor Temple is the most picturesque of temples I have seen thus far. Candice was in a mood, the kids were super energized, especially Jacob. The temple has been restored to a state where the layout and design of the grounds can be appreciated as if this were a modern structure. The position of and the energy emanating from the temple reminds me of Grant Park in Chicago which is not unlike Central Park in New York in many respects. Grant Park serves to pull people towards it, I remember going to work many days and seeing either the park or the festivals going on in the park and wishing I could be a part of the event or go hang out in the park. It is the same with Luxor. But none of that matters much when your lady is in a mood. So rather than trying to get to the bottom of all that, I decided it was time to see Luxor. Jacob decided it was time to play in every bit of temple dust he could touch, and later lick, and of course, roll around in.

A few weeks ago, when we arrived in the town of Luxor we saw the temple and our attention was drawn towards Luxor Temple because it was both huge and unlike any other structure in town besides Karnak. Karnak itself is walled off and separate and slightly to the north of town. Luxor on the other hand is easily seen and central to town. We drove by Luxor, many a time wondering when we would finally arrive, each time on the way to some mundane task. Buying food and juice, purchasing clothing, meeting someone or the other; always Luxor stood, drawing us to itself.

• Additional Photos (Picasa)

We arrived at a little after one o'clock in the afternoon. At this time of year that was the perfect time because the temple columns themselves serve to partially shade the complex landscape. In addition, the tourists arrived a bit later, as we were leaving, on our way back home. So anytime except the summertime I would recommend a visit probably right after the noon hour, and I have been told that all the temples deserve a visit at night to see the light shows. Since Egypt is so alive at night period, I would have to agree. During the day carry water or juice for refreshment, luckily we did. Our choice was orange schweppes and baraka water.

When we arrived we entered the gate which is now on the side away from the Nile and not on the Nile side. We entered the security gate and went in to purchase tickets. I would recommend having nearly exact change. The ticket agent looked completely non-apologetic when I handed her two one hundred pound Egyptian notes for five discounted tickets. The prices at discount were twenty five pounds each. Luckily, Corey had twenty five which she loaned me for her admission (about four US dollars). The ticket agent looked disappointed and issued our tickets, perhaps she wanted us to pay the full fee, best to carry exact change, a student card purchased in the states and small bills.

Upon entry you walk down a small walkway which leads you to the choice of the column of sphinx (which is the proper entry to the temple) or the temple itself. To the side of this entryway is a small building, said to be the Chapel of Serapis. A chapel is said to furthermore be a place of worship inside of a greater place of worship, often for private prayer as opposed to a larger cathedral or such. We chose to walk towards the Temple itself however, and later returned to the chapel.

The temple is enormous and has been added on time and time again. At one point, there was a Roman fort built around the temple, and there is a remaining mosque, the mosque of Abu al-Haggag, which can be visited. Abu Haggag is a local saint, probably Luxor's main saint or holy man. The mosque of Abu al-Haggag remains because it is said to be built on a holy spot, full of baraka, or divine blessing. I would agree. The site was once a Coptic church but was converted to a mosque during the twelfth century. Of course the Luxor Temple predates the building of both by over two thousand years. Amenhotep the third is said to have completed the temple at about 1400 BC. However, the spot does indeed have an energy about it which has attracted congregants of many faiths, and people of all nationalities.

Beneath the mosque lies Luxor, immediately before you arrive at anything else is the Obelisk ,the remaining one of two, the other has been removed to the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Following is the court of Ramses II who is said to have renovated the temple and completed more work on it after Amenhotep III. Statues of Ramses the II are abundant. The columns are said to show Ramses II making offerings to the gods. Following are courts and chambers said to be dedicated to Amen, Mut and Khonsu.

Amenhotep III is said to be the father of Akhenaton (Amenhotep IV), much of the work here shows his work and the decoration shows the return of Tutankhamun to the ways of old, following the reign of Akhenaton and the worship of Atun. Aparrantly, some stuff went down. In addition, with all this worship of Amen, nothing is left to pay homage to Amen-et, his predecessor and synchronous mate, but that is another story.

My plan was to visit and allow myself to be taken where my spirit would, take photos of the reliefs that were of most interest and try to make sense of them over time. We found a few at the end of Ramses court as well as in other places around the temple complex. Some I will include as photos for this article. By the time we got into Ramses court Candice was talking to me again and we managed to both marvel at the reliefs.

As we were crossing from the Court of Ramses into the Colonnade of Amenhotep, I was approached by a tour guide. He was a local and he told me his name was Moses. He tried unsuccessfully to operate as my tour guide. He asked where I was from and I said America, waiting for "yes, Obama." He asked me again, I said America. He looks intently and say where you really from. Then I look at him funny and said, you from Africa. I smiled and then I say oh yeah, "I am from Afrika," then added, "right here in Egypt." He look at me funny at first and then smiled back in agreement.

Moses asked me if I knew what his name meant. I did, but all I could mutter out was water. He agreed and added, son of the water. Later he told me he was actually an Egyptologist, although it seems that gets thrown around a bit here. However, I asked him if the Mo, Mu was was related to the Nu, Nuit, N - as in water and he seemed to understand and offered the beginnings of an explanation. So I asked for his number and figured he might be able to offer some additional info sometime in the future, after I figure out what I am interested in most studying.

From that point we went all the way to the back of the temple where the Shrine of Amun and the sanctuary of Amenhotep the III are. In the chambers leading to the sanctuary and shrine there are openings up to the sky and they are pretty massive. On the way out, in one of the dark openings there is a drop of what I think is water. I am like, damn, this is like a type of baptism, on the back of my shirt. I am like about to have this mystical experience in this little space of dark silence and I am like what is that, that fell on me. I am thinking of the waters of Amun, dripping down, only on the select. Corey is right behind me. I ask again, "what is that dripping," thinking I am speaking in my mind, Corey says, "there are pigeons up there."

Just a drop hit me and we had some paper towels. I look up, see them and start thinking. I am a quasi mostly vegetarian, but you do know that Egyptians eat pigeons over here. Pigeon soup, probably roasted too. Yeah. So that seems to be an invite to at least try one, I mean fair game for at least the experience. Teach them a lesson. Whatever the case, my shirt is still way cleaner than Jacob's who now has this film of grey temple dust covering every inch of his body.

So we return to the front of the temple and the Japanese are arriving. Japanese cat doing the power fist out in front of Ramses, well something like that. I'm like whoa.

Remember that small change I recommended? It is for the groundskeepers and such who will recommend certain spots for the wayward visitor to photo and experience. As recompense you should have backsheesh of a few Egyptian Pounds, one or two at least, which is the equivalent of about forty cents. They will even photo you or a group with much joy.

As we walk towards the entrance to the complex Candice looks at me and asks if I remember the columns that we had walked past and if I knew what they represented. She explained that they were the fourteen powers from ra which are bestowed to the king, priest, initiate, etcetera...leading to the perfected man. Later she explained it in context to the famous relief of Akhenaton with the sun shinning down on him...each hand representing the same respective idea. I guess that was another reason to keep your woman happy, revelations worthy of a king for free. Maybe Moses knew something about that too though, I will ask him next time, since I got his number.

We ended the tour by stopping to view a decapitated so called Serapis in his said chapel and the column of Sphinx which are still being excavated and will stretch for blocks. Serapis is worth a discussion all of his own, even if the said chapel is not. As excavation in town continues I will add photos and commentary. Until then.

Afterward:
Probably our most lasting thoughts after visiting are the relation of this temple to Anubis who is around quite a bit and his function as intermediary between our world and the next, guardian of the gate. In addition, after considering the function of Serapis at the entry to the temple, in a likewise function as the keeper of the way, gatekeeper of the underworld, as well as his synchronization with Osiris. Analyzing Serapis, Anubis, Amen, Mut and Amenet together should be very interesting indeed.

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